Amazing new route which goes left from the wide crack section of West Crack all the way across the golden knob face to the arete above Cooke Book, then through an overhung roof dihedral at only 5.9! Stellar 5.9 route, topo in new Supertopo book.
Submitted by: boltdude on 2003-09-28
Route ID: 41185
Start with the fantastic first 1.5 pitches of West Crack. A rising slab/knob traverse pitch that is not super run-out but just spaced enough to keep your attention. Finish it off with great knob climbing on an arete and a spectacularly exposed corner.
I think we were the 4th group in line and we had 4 in our party and this was on a Thursday! First moves off the deck are no gimme; roof off the first belay is easier than it looks once you figure it out. Traverse goes on forever--wear comfy shoes because I didn't and my feet were on fire after only going halfway. The next pitch is a lot of fun with terrific exposure. Climbed that day with Gerry, second group was Leigh and Jimmy.
It was getting late in the week and this was our second attempt to get on this because of crowds. Blown Away starts up the first two pitches of West Crack and then traverses left and finishes up an arÍte and overhanging dihedral. West Crack is an absolute zoo and I refused to wait on our first attempt so we did Crescent Arch (which was also great). I was kind of tired and this day I didn't mind waiting (of course if I had known how long we were going to wait, then I would have moved on). The party in front of us was super nice so I did not give them hell for also being super slow. On one hand I was frustrated because I wanted to climb, but on the other hand, it was cool to see someone tackle something that was obviously hard for them. It was worth the wait. It was like an amusement ride. Wheeeee!!!!!