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Bombs Over Tokyo - 5.10c

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Rock (Trad)
G
1
Standard rack up to 3in (second set of finger-sized nuts optional)
90
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.50/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

This 5-star Tuolumne classic finger-crack is just to the right of Cooke Book. Climb over two blocky bulges to attain what is perhaps the best finger-sized splitter crack of the grade in Tuolumne. The crack starts as narrow hands, narrows to a thin fingertips/layback crux section, then wides again for a thin-hands finish - taking excellent pro the whole way. Go up and left to ledge for rap-rings/bolted anchor. Note this first pitch - though often climbed singly - is actually the first pitch of a longer, much harder (and less well-protectable) route. Seems that most people just climb P1 and rap off.

Descent Options:

Rap off bolted rap rings at the top of P1, or finish the route and walk off.

Submitted by: gregory_huey on 2010-09-12
Views: 382
Route ID: 106557

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2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: leoand23 on 2013-05-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Super fun

Just loved the transition from roof to hand to thin hand to finger to tips to finger. I used a nut that was stucked for pro, but then I backed it up with my own gear (wasting precious juice in the process). Toes gave out at the crux and had to work it out til the good face holds. Route after the crux eases quite a bit.

Added: 2013-06-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: gregory_huey on 2010-09-05 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars should not have fallen, darn it

An excellent finger splitter-crack - none of this 'jamming pinscars' nonsense. I found the cruz about 2/3rds the way up the finger crack. The crack gets very narrow, but do to the right side sticking out a bit more than the left, is not hard to lay-back to the right through. The crux finishes with a narrow-hand jam. I could see it - I though 'I got this'. Then I was careless with a foot placement on the last crux move. As I reached for the crux-exit jam, my foot popped off, and down I went. Darn. Immediately climbed back up, laybacked the crux with more care on the feet and finished the route with no further falls. Partner followed the route, then I followed it again - no falls. I know next time - with a little more care - the redpoint will be mine.

Added: 2010-09-12