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Regular Route ***** - 5.10b

Average Rating = 4.86/5 Average Rating : 4.86 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (42)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.67/5
  Rock Quality 4.53/5
  Scenery 4.93/5
  Fun Factor 4.67/5

Description:

7 pitches of face, layback (crux), finger/hand/fist crack, and even mantles on the last pitch. ***** 5 Stars

Submitted by: rrradam on 2001-10-16
Views: 1178
Route ID: 4699

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42 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2013-06-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Third Pillar of Dana

Climbed with Joe A. Led the route. The second pitch for me was way out left, up a slightly flaring, but pleasant right facing corner. Someone behind us said it was a 5.10b variation, felt on route to me. Top of this corner fed right into the flake below the short chimney behind the large rock on the third pitch. Very fun pitch from a feature perspective. The fourth and fifth pitches both had ledges under their crux moves, not my idea of an ideal route. The whole route was quite ledgy actually. I used a brassie on the 4th pitch start which I kicked out as I committed. A serious move there. The fifth pitch has options. I took the thin corner below the roof. Fixed nut and cam, we retrieved the cam easily (and found its owner). Tons of gear all over this route and laying on the ledges. The roof pull was the most fun on the route. Kind of a one time lay-back/mantle move. From there, easy finish. The mantle up top is maybe 5th class in comparison. The approach is not a gully, but rather down climbing the next pillar to the north.

Added: 2013-06-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
Onsight Onsight ascent by: critterdude542 on 2012-09-11 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars 3PD!!

Great route!! that last pitch...oh my goodness! SO GOOD!
the 5.10 crux in the middle of the 4th pitch felt pretty sketchy (protected with a #2 stopper) the 5th pitch is absolutely amazing!! the descent kinda sucks, but so worth it! Go do it!

Added: 2012-09-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: douglaskinsman on 2011-08-29 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Fantastic

Jugs and jams abound on this one with a scenic view and remote feel. I could see how older guide books put it at 5.9 as there is an option to skip the 10b fingercrack (but who would do that?) and the rest of the 10 cruxes are soft. The only detractor from the route is the vegetated OW on pitch 2, otherwise 5 star all the way. I can only imagine how many times rock/paper/scissors has determined who leads that last pitch.

Added: 2011-09-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Bosworth on 2010-09-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars 3rd pillar

Spectacular route! Climbed the alternate variation up climbers right of the standard route. P2 (normal start) ended up on a hanging belay (topo called out a ledge?) just below the wild hand traverse out left. P3 was classic with a difficult lie back on very thin wires (ie. scray!). The climb just gets better and better finishing with a very memorial pitch on steep rock.

Added: 2010-09-27

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Mcarpe17 on 2009-08-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars stellar finish!

best pitch in the sierras?

Added: 2009-09-09

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