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Holdless Horror - 5.7

Average Rating = 3.75/5 Average Rating : 3.75 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (16)
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Rock
cams to 4", nuts, and hexes
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.71/5
  Rock Quality 4.14/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

This route climbs the only crack which splits the rock from the base all the way to the top. There's one heck of an offwidth (or two) on P2, but that makes it all the more fun. Fingerlocks, handjams, and large crystals abound on this route. Four pitches in all. This is a great route in an amazingly beautiful location. Highly recommended.

Submitted by: thedus on 2004-10-04
Last Modified: 2008-05-07
Views: 996
Route ID: 60389

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16 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: leoand23 on 2011-08-22 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Eats up passive

Fun route... Finally climbed it with E.H. after a failed attempt in the beggining of August (due to snow to almost the top of P1).
The descend is not bad at all, quite easy little or no water is running. (Went past the water into the tree line, and then back towars the base of the climb)
Climbed Dozier dome after finishing this one it's also a good one.

Added: 2011-11-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: douglaskinsman on 2011-08-27 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun switching

between the crack and the face, the view of Eichorn's from Lower Cathedral Lake is incredible, make sure to check it out after topping out.

Added: 2011-09-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: yosemite26 on 2010-08-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars good

good

Added: 2010-08-04

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: quiteatingmysteak on 2010-07-22 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars .

dont bring anything larger than a BD C3 #3, protects the wide looking second pitch perfectly. Other spots protect with med to large stoppers.

Added: 2010-07-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: chugar on 2010-07-18 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Nice Day

The approach path is well-defined now. It looks just like a normal hiking trail. Prob bc the new ST ed has many more routes at Dozier.

The steeper sections of climbing was really nice and protectable. I managed to protect w/o a 4" but a 4" cam would have been useful. Two nut sets would have been better for me. However, the low angle 4th class wasn't too fun as it put a strain on your heel/achilles tendon.

The walkoff the backside was a pain. Not as long as Cathedral or Tenaya but not as short as Lembert. Once you get into the treeline, the descent trail is barely noticeable. We crossed a stream/waterfall (seasonal?) going down the slab twice to best follow the easier path down to the start of the climbs. KC.



Added: 2010-07-19

... Read all 16 ascent notes