This route climbs the only crack which splits the rock from the base all the way to the top. There's one heck of an offwidth (or two) on P2, but that makes it all the more fun. Fingerlocks, handjams, and large crystals abound on this route. Four pitches in all. This is a great route in an amazingly beautiful location. Highly recommended.
Submitted by: thedus on 2004-10-04
Last Modified: 2008-05-07
Route ID: 60389
Fun route... Finally climbed it with E.H. after a failed attempt in the beggining of August (due to snow to almost the top of P1). The descend is not bad at all, quite easy little or no water is running. (Went past the water into the tree line, and then back towars the base of the climb) Climbed Dozier dome after finishing this one it's also a good one.
The approach path is well-defined now. It looks just like a normal hiking trail. Prob bc the new ST ed has many more routes at Dozier.
The steeper sections of climbing was really nice and protectable. I managed to protect w/o a 4" but a 4" cam would have been useful. Two nut sets would have been better for me. However, the low angle 4th class wasn't too fun as it put a strain on your heel/achilles tendon.
The walkoff the backside was a pain. Not as long as Cathedral or Tenaya but not as short as Lembert. Once you get into the treeline, the descent trail is barely noticeable. We crossed a stream/waterfall (seasonal?) going down the slab twice to best follow the easier path down to the start of the climbs. KC.