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Oz - 5.10d

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (21)
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Dale Bard, Bob Locke (1975)
Rock
PG13
Standard rack to #3 Camalot or large hexes; extra large stoppers and finger to hand sized cams.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.86/5
  Rock Quality 4.57/5
  Scenery 4.71/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

p1) somewhat undignified face and crack climbing;
p2) reachy and sustained face climbing;
p3) easier face and crack climbing with an exciting finish;
p4) classic dihedral with great stemming, tons of rests, perfect gear placements - don't use up all your gear too soon. Bolts for the belay, so you don't have to save anything;
p5) fairly straightforward exit pitch.

You can combine pitches 2-3 or pitches 3-4, but probably better off not to.

By the way, most people call this route Oz (as in "ahs" as in Wizard of), though the origin of the name is the abbrevation for the unit of measurement, as in an ounce of drugs). Ditto for the Gram traverse.

Submitted by: ergophobe on 2002-07-24
Views: 949
Route ID: 20901

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21 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: I_am_very_happy_2_b_here on 2012-12-27 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars OZ (ounce) was fantastic!

great route. I lead the 10+ sporty pitch and my partner took the corner. great fun. did Gram traverse after for more fun

Added: 2012-12-27

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: gregory_huey on 2010-09-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Classic route

Onsighted while climbing with Ed Henicle on our first day in the Meadow. The 10d crux (face-climbing on crimpy knobs) pitch is very well-bolted - its almost a sport/gym route - probably would be 11a in our gym. Super-topo says the dihedral takes lots of 1 inch cams - not the same as BD #1. You want alot of #0.5 BD C4s (purple). I'd say protecting the start is PG13 (with G being 100% straightforward). We decided not to do Gram Traverse though - trad-leading at my limit under supposedly large loose death blocks didn't appeal to me, so we did the standard finish. However, there are some loose holds on the standard finish also. After one (blindly) turns the arete, while stepping down, two holds present themselves - they are as loose as they are positive & inviting. Avoiding them makes the move harder than one would have initially expected. The walkoff isn't too difficult, but try to do it in the daylight.

A great first day in the Meadows!


Added: 2010-09-12

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: canmoron on 2009-09-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Amazing corner

Once again, failed to send pitch 2 clean. Maybe next time. Incredible route. Bring lots of purple/green camalot sized cams for "the corner".

Added: 2009-09-22

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Bosworth on 2008-07-27 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars OZ

stem baby stem. Classic climb.

Added: 2008-07-29

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: roseraie on 2007-10-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Whoa.

Way harder than Lucky Streaks, possibly because I'm short. Dihedral pitch was amazing. Followed all but p1.

Added: 2007-10-02

... Read all 21 ascent notes