p1) somewhat undignified face and crack climbing; p2) reachy and sustained face climbing; p3) easier face and crack climbing with an exciting finish; p4) classic dihedral with great stemming, tons of rests, perfect gear placements - don't use up all your gear too soon. Bolts for the belay, so you don't have to save anything; p5) fairly straightforward exit pitch.
You can combine pitches 2-3 or pitches 3-4, but probably better off not to.
By the way, most people call this route Oz (as in "ahs" as in Wizard of), though the origin of the name is the abbrevation for the unit of measurement, as in an ounce of drugs). Ditto for the Gram traverse.
Submitted by: ergophobe on 2002-07-24
Route ID: 20901
Onsighted while climbing with Ed Henicle on our first day in the Meadow. The 10d crux (face-climbing on crimpy knobs) pitch is very well-bolted - its almost a sport/gym route - probably would be 11a in our gym. Super-topo says the dihedral takes lots of 1 inch cams - not the same as BD #1. You want alot of #0.5 BD C4s (purple). I'd say protecting the start is PG13 (with G being 100% straightforward). We decided not to do Gram Traverse though - trad-leading at my limit under supposedly large loose death blocks didn't appeal to me, so we did the standard finish. However, there are some loose holds on the standard finish also. After one (blindly) turns the arete, while stepping down, two holds present themselves - they are as loose as they are positive & inviting. Avoiding them makes the move harder than one would have initially expected. The walkoff isn't too difficult, but try to do it in the daylight.