Skip to Content

Heart of Stone - 5.12a

Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock (Trad) (Sport)
R
11
Bolts, some old some new, small to medium nuts and cams from .4" to 3.5"
1000
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.67/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.67/5

Description:

Runout bolted climbing interspersed with quality corners including the amazing 5.12 6th pitch, The most obvious left facing corner on the west face.

Descent Options:

walk off

Submitted by: bandidopeco on 2007-07-16
Views: 1070
Route ID: 87104

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: A-Bowl on 2009-09-04 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Just the first 3

The first 3 pitches are a fun 10d experience. Tricky, thought provoking and hard. Pretty damn hard for the grade. Thought we would finish on Toad's wild ride for a tall route clocking in 10d and under but the sun cooked it and made hard slab un-appealing. Kinda wasted my onsight of the first three just to bail... another day....

Added: 2009-09-06

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: salamanizer on 2008-07-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Wild. Hail yeah!

Fun climbing, not too runout. Some tricky puzzleing pitches. Took a while to lead nearly every pitch, had to think alot. Ended up having to bail from the top of the 6th pitch because of a thunderstorm. Rapped with a 60m rope in 5 raps. Worst thunderstorm in Tuolumne in a long time. Torrential rain and big hail pounded us on the rap. Had to lean upside down on one of the raps to clip a bolt, then rap off the end of the rope cuz it didn't quite reach. Made it to the base with huge waterfalls to the left and right of us (in Tee shirts). Ran down the flooded trail back to the truck in lightening and hail. Nursed our welts from the hail and cranked the heater. Close call.

Would not reccomend rapping this route with a 60m rope under even the best of conditions.
Fukkin epic, have to go back and finish the danm thing now. SOB!

That dihedral pitch is awesome though.

Added: 2008-07-13

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: bandidopeco on 2007-07-13 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Nearly benighted

Whipped small on the 6th pitch, and bigger on the 10th. I need to return later to do this without hanging, or falling, or doing the last few pitches in the last glow of sunlight.

Added: 2007-07-16