The Hobbit Book follows a steep dihedral straight up the face of Mariuolumne Dome. Though the crack climbing is very secure, this route has some runout face climbing.
Just before the wide section in the dihedral, move up and left on perfect incut face holds. You will soon pass a bolt, then head straight up for 70 feet (no pro!) and back into the dihedral. The face section has just the right amount of bomber, incut, "dinner plates" to make it comfortable. Still, the long approach and long runout keeps the crowds away from this 5 star route.
Submitted by: bcd on 2003-09-26
Route ID: 41046
An alpine style climb for sure. The approach is tricky. Route finding is hard at times and navigating over the massive boulders can be hard at times. Once at the route though it is 100% worth it! The first pitch is mediocre with a cool exposed traverse, but the quality climbing doesn’t start until pitch two. It has some amazing crack climbing up to a hanging belay. The third pitch is the mental crux. I led this one and traversing out to the face is pretty intimidating. The climbing is not that hard here, though you have to run it out about 60 ft. A 120 ft fall was pretty daunting as I placed my next pro when I met up with the crack. My favorite pitch was the last one. It stayed in the crack and led across a surprisingly easy roof crack. The exposure there was unreal!
Some of the plates on the big runout can be protected so-so with thin long slings. The moves though are 5.7, it's all there if you take take your time and you certainly can find some good rest stops if you need them. On the low part of the route, don't go to the tree to the right as some people have due to misreading the route in the Falcon guide--stay in the crack.
Did this with Gordon in preparation for our Teton trip. Excellent climbing!
Was gripped when starting the infamous .7R section, but got into the groove, took it one move at a time, & was at the dihedral (& pro') before I knew it. I think that finding the calm to get through a situation with potentially dangerous consequences for f%$&ing up is one of the most rewarding parts of climbing.
Anyway, a great climb with a good friend & awesome day! Going to the DOA campground later, with typical associated debauchery, was also a lot of fun :)