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Anticipation - 5.11b

Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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Double to triple TCUs. Wires and cams to #2 Camelot. Larger cam usefull for 1st belay.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.50/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Challenging, varied and exciting climbing the entire way. The sole detraction from this amazing route is the chossy but easy 50 foot approach pitch. Starts about 200 feet left of where the approach trail hits the wall where there is a tree growing from the cliff 25 feet up. Climb past chossy rock to the tree then trend left to a ledge at the base of a right facing dihedral and belay. Next pitch is quite sustained. Starts out with calf-pumping stemming then switches to a crack on the right climbing past a small bush. Cop an awkward rest on jams at a small roof. Get your extra TCUs ready then fire through the roof into another right-facing dihedral using awesome/physical fingerlocks. Classic!

Submitted by: crackmd on 2004-08-19
Views: 703
Route ID: 58336

5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lsandvos on 2012-10-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Finger locks!

I definitely worked for this one. Cruxes are technical, but the whole climb is well-protected. The approach pitch is annoying. Watch out for the rope getting stuck in the big tree to the right of the approach 5.9 pitch, and for biting ants on that same tree.

Added: 2012-10-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2010-05-04 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars super corner

thin tricky crux.

Added: 2010-05-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2008-04-13 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Reachy

Interesting traverse on the first (approach) pitch.
A tight corner to an easy undercling leads to some bouldery, reachy, thin holds while stemming. Good rest at the little roof then its a huge reach to good locks. Once you nail the first good fingerlock it's pretty locker from there and the difficulty eases as you move up. Classic!!

Added: 2008-04-13

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: crackmd on 1997-08-20 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

My favorite route at Arch.

Added: 1997-08-20

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: dscottusa on 1985-05-24 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 1985-05-24