Another neglected classic! Starts 30 feet to the left of English Breakfast Crack. Blocky/awkward start leads to sustained climbing up a right facing flake. Lots of jamming and laybacking will see you to a rest just prior to a traverse. Transition into face-climbing mode and fire this cruxy traverse to a bolt anchor. A great climb to do when there are lines on Gripper and Midterm.
Submitted by: crackmd on 2005-03-25
Route ID: 64919
The traverse felt hard. The rest of the first pitch is pretty casual. The second pitch relies upon a slung loose flake for pro. I gave it 50/50 to hold a fall. The climbing at the flake--left--is mid to hard 10.
Pretty freakin sustained up high. An easy undercling section leads to some downclimbing and a bouldery face move or three to the anchors. The face moves felt a lot harder than .10c. Interesting penjilum potential for the leader and the second on the face moves. Nothing too serious though.