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Crimson Cringe - 5.12a

Average Rating = 4.75/5 Average Rating : 4.75 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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TCUs for the initial crack moves. Many cams in the 0.75, #1 and #2 range. #3 and #4 useful up high
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.33/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

I am amazed that this mega-classic has not been added sooner. Difficult to miss the line from the Cascade falls parking lot. Just look up the riverbed left of the falls for the beautiful left-leaning splitter crack. Starts right in the riverbed which makes it unclimbable in the spring and early summer. Easy face moves past a bolt lead to hard moves in an ever-widening, leaning fingercrack. Hang on and you will be "rewarded" with more leaning crack in the thinhands/hands sizes. Save some energy for the layback to undercling at the finish. Some cool climber placed a bolt a few years back to make this finish way less scary. One of the finest pitches in the Valley!

Submitted by: crackmd on 2004-07-29
Views: 1331
Route ID: 56944

5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: Rockjunkie15 on 2011-11-27 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Awesome

A great route, can't wait to jump on it again.

Added: 2011-12-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2000-06-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars One of the best

The end of the route was easier than I expected. Technical crux down low

Added: 2008-11-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2002-06-11 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars fantastic

excellent climbing. I found the start a bit scary-wrong line at first.

Added: 2008-07-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: salamanizer on 2008-03-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Sustained

Don't remember any moves being as hard as the given grade but relentless with little rests the whole way. One of the best single pitches in the valley. Better have your endurance up before you go for the onsight on this one. It just keeps on giving. But the undercling at the end is not as hard as it looks and you get a good rest just before it so don't give up. Missed the onsight cuz I burned out literally eight feet before the good rest on a flake. So close...
...and yes, it's still climbable in winter and early spring. The river doesn't make it difficult to get there at all.

Added: 2008-03-02

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: phoenix on 2001-10-10 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

This line is crackalicious. Pumpy. A new bolt tames the finishing undercling move. I thought this was harder than Fish Crack 12.b.

Witnessed by: Jim Hewitt
Added: 2001-10-10