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Braille Book - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.33/5 Average Rating : 4.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (29)
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Rock
Two sets of nuts and cams to 4 inch
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8 A0
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.20/5
  Rock Quality 4.50/5
  Scenery 4.90/5
  Fun Factor 4.70/5

Description:

An old stile trad climb two thirds the way up Spires Gully , When you reach the base you will understand why it is called Braille Book , The rock has pockets , Cracks , A chimney at the fourth pitch where stemming will be required ,This climb makes you use all your moves , It is a great route .

Submitted by: ontherocks on 2006-07-05
Views: 1549
Route ID: 43500

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29 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mathdesj on 2012-05-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Old Style 5.8

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Added: 2012-10-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dindolino32 on 2012-07-04 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Dont underestimate, but dont fear the book! And bring a #4 camalot

WOW, the approach totally blew! It took my wife and I quite a while longer than the 1.5 hrs that I expected. There was no real trail after the boulder field. Then we got to the level of the climb and just bushwacked to the base. We didn't bring a bag, which was a good idea since there was offwidth and a chimney.The 1st pitch was face climbing seemed like I was on sandstone: STEEP with protruding flake/dishes that mostly had good incuts. I ended out running most of it to speed up the ascent. Belay on ledge on right with an old bolt above you. 2nd pitch was quick with face climbing and some crack climbing. Pro was probably there too but I just kept running it out. Which was weird because I was actually sketched out, but just kept going. this pitch passes another OLD bolts. 3rd was REALLY LONG, almost the full 60 meters. I never really found the chimney to be slippery, I just pushed the #3 up the crack and then took it back when I clipped a natural chock. I was glad I did because I used it on the 2nd part too.
4th pitch had the offwidth, but this seemed solid for me the whole time, I switch the direction that I faced about 20 feet up when I got a good fist jam. The pro was there with some small nuts and some pitons were there when I started to worry.
At the end of the 4th pitch (i think it was 4th) after pulling the 5.5 roof, there were some new bolts for rapping down. continue just to the left up the easy crack and belay. The next pitch was not so obvious as you are now on a ledge and facing a new direction. climb to the right and over a gully that is pretty exposed to a big tree, sling it if you like and make your way up and above the tree. From there you are home free! This was definitely a classic

Added: 2012-07-06

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: coryberkebile on 2011-05-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Awesome route with great views.

I always recommend this route as an intro to climbing in Yosemite. It defenitly tests all the mediums of climbing skills. Good fun.

Added: 2012-01-19

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: douglaskinsman on 2010-09-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Nice views

Sweet route that is actually pretty mellow in terms of gear and climbing difficulty. If you are feeling froggy try the 10c hands/fingers variation on P4 as it is way overhung with good gear. Watch out for critters at the base tearing into your packs.

Added: 2010-09-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: thecornyman on 2010-05-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Amazing route!

Best route I've been on yet. I lead all pitches and loved it.
P1 was a little heady for me but I think I was just settling in for a step up the grade and length I was about to lead.
P2 is the easiest pitch, little steep but easy to protect. I get a .5 purple cam stuck and my follower couldn't clean but I'm guessing it will get cleaned pretty quickly by someone experienced.
P3 Def more than 80 ft to the real belay and is a lot more difficult with a back pack (at least for me since I'm new to chimney climbing). Super topo says no protection but I had no problem. Bring some small nuts but they don't need to be micro.
P4 Crux pitch for me. Find the holds on the left before getting too far up. I chimney-ed up the first moves and then couldn't get to a stemming position and took my only fall on the route (luckily after clipping the piton). You can get 1 or 2 number 4 camelot in before the piton. The view at the top of this pitch is the most breathtaking picture I've ever seen.
P5 couple different variations here. I went straight up and when you get wrist deep in tree sap then traverse out right to some jugs you jump up on.
P6 Jug city but pretty vertical so I only ran it out 15 - 20 ft between pieces. Crazy bad rope drag.

Decent - so we finished as the sun was setting and then ended up going down the right of the ridge into the wrong valley. Probably finished the climb around 8pm then bushwacked till 3am. Down the right side of the ridge to some river? up the wrong ridge to a cliff? then across to true gully that leads back to the base of the climb. Then promptly lost the trail again and bushwacked back down to the boulder field and finally found the trail back to the road. Was almost sure we were going to sleep out there.

All worth it.

Added: 2010-06-01

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