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DNB - 5.10b

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
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Rock (Trad)
G
to 3"
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.00/5

Description:

Adult route. The third pitch is the crux. well protected. Other pitches above have very long runouts (50+ feet) on 5.9 face. Descent via the catwalk . (Natec edit: the guide book has this climb at 5.10b so I have changed it.) (ergophobe edit: SuperTopo has this route as 5.11a. I think the 5.10b rating is more correct and have had some discussion with Chris Mac on this, but he wants to let the 5.11a rating stand. So if you're a 5.10b leader, you've been warned!)(smallwall edit: I believe it is the 9th pitch which has suffered a bit of rockfall, and is now ~.10a going up where there's a new fixed piton. take care climbing up the gargantuan loose block!)

Submitted by: smallwallmonkey on 2008-07-23
Views: 1168
Route ID: 9852

7 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: stevecurtis on 1993-08-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars A 20 year old memory

I did this in two days with a crusty old climber 20 years older than me. It turned into a real struggle when we ran out of water midway through day two, and had to spend another night on top. On the way down, we ran into people who knew me in a previous life, and another famous climber who offered to trade us a quart of water for a few cams. In the end, he gave us a quart of water.

About 10 years later, I came back and did the route in a bit over half a day.

Added: 2012-01-16

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating R
Onsight Onsight ascent by: graniteboy on 1993-05-10 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars With Jeff Angermann

2nd pitch mantle is in fact 10b....always has been...irrespective of MacNamara's re-rating. But make no mistake, this is an adult route. So no whining on those big runouts on the 3rd and 4th pitches. After that, though, most pitches are pretty well protected.


Added: 2007-12-10

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: smallwallmonkey on 2002-07-16 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

wow, this was f'in tuff. We managed to get up the thing, but were forced to bivy on top in t-shirt/shorts (ouch!). Though a solid .11 leader would probably cruise it, it can be quite cruxy for some folks.

Witnessed by: eminem
Added: 2002-07-16

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: crackwhore on 1998-10-09 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

did in 12 pitches 1st time. (7:00)
best i could do 2nd was 10 pitches (4:45 +-)

Added: 1998-10-09

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: crackmd on 1995-07-13 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

I hate this route!

Added: 1995-07-13

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