Skip to Content

East Buttress Middle Cathedral - 5.10c popular

Average Rating = 4.70/5 Average Rating : 4.70 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (98)
Premier Sponsor:
Warren Harding, Jack Davis, Bob Swift, 1954 FFA: Frank Sacherer, Ed Leeper, 1965
Rock
11
1 set nuts, 2 each cams .5-3.5
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b A0
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.70/5
  Rock Quality 4.57/5
  Scenery 4.97/5
  Fun Factor 4.67/5

Description:

11 Pitches. One pitch of 5.10c or 5.9 A0. The rest is all 5.8 and below with a few tricky cruxes. An all day adventure so bring proper supplies. Garden tools might be useful on the last pitch. Descending via the Kat Walk at night completes the experience. Don't use the last rap (poor bolts on a very small boulder). Its unnecessary and easily downclimbed through the tunnel.

Submitted by: hollyclimber on 2006-07-13
Views: 2480
Route ID: 24420

Topo Image

Most Recent Photos (See all 7 photos)

98 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 98 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9 A0
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: leoand23 on 2014-05-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Indeed a classic

Amazing route. Climbed with a 70m. We used the rappel route (exiting after p11) and were down in no time. It is a sweet route. Started from car at 6am; back at car at 3:30pm.
P1-P2 Lead - Linked; roof was a little spicy
P3-P4 Follow - Linked; P3 was one of my favorites; loved the finger corner.
P5-P6 Lead - Aided the bolt ladder; traverse left was a little spicy after the last bolt. roof went clean; topo misleadme to traverse hard right (sketchy) and did not find the piton; went for the alternate bolted belay.
P7-P8 - follow, Stucked behind slow party had to wait to continue.
P9 - lead; still stuck behind slow party. belay at a tree. easy pitch.
p9-p11 follow; easy pitch. Splitter was really nice; last portion was unexpectedly fun.
use rap route on the left and came down in about 2 hours.


Added: 2014-05-19

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: wallfrog on 2013-05-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars East buttress middle cathedral

Killer climb. About 4 1/2 hours. Epic

Added: 2013-06-01

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: andr5861 on 2012-08-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars super!

can see why it was so damn crowded.

Added: 2012-12-05

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: bowleggedgoat on 2012-09-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars awesome

did the 50 crowded variation and simuled the three ps after that

Added: 2012-11-01

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: csproul on 2012-09-11 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars did the

bolt ladder variation. Did not climb the 10c and the 5.9 above the ladder was not too hard. A truly classic route. Super fun, super views of El Cap. Descent is longish but pretty easy to follow and puts you right back at the base.

Added: 2012-09-11

... Read all 98 ascent notes