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Paradise Lost - 5.10a

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 15
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Ray Jardine, Rik Rieder, 6/72
Rock (Trad)
R
7
screamers for old 1/4 inch bolts and pins, otherwise nuts/cams thin
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Seven Pitches of racy but not too difficult face climbing.

Submitted by: karlbaba on 2008-05-08
Views: 842
Route ID: 20453

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2010-05-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Classic Middle Cathedral

Climbed this route with Clint Cummins to fix ropes to pitch 7 so that the ASCA can replace all the old 1/4 in bolts on the route.
Great route with some really moderate but high quality climbing on middle. There are some decent runouts but nothing harder than 5.8. The 5.10 sections seem to be well protected. The third pitch is cut short and how has a belay anchor where the bolt before the traverse right is. There is another route that continues strait up from there. Don't get suckered into going up. Instead, keep traversing right and you'll run into the anchor hiding just behind a right facing corner below a small roof. Pitch 4 climbs over that roof with bomber pro and huge exposure and follows a splitter crack for a while until you're spit back out onto the face. The rest of the route has some wild traverses, great edging, solid rock and major exposure. This is a route for a solid leader at the grade as the runouts (though easy/er) are big enough at times where one would not want to fall. This route would be a great warm up for someone wanting to jump on Stoners Highway but not sure if their ready or not, as it has similar climbing, but with a more moderate grade.

Added: 2010-05-18

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: karlbaba on 2002-06-12 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

I liked the route but would suggest folks stay off it unless they lead 5.10 face regularly and have plenty of trad headspace. The moves aren't hard but there are some leadouts and old bolts.

Added: 2002-06-12

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jv on 1977-07-14 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

A favorite. A Reider route: runout. I led the second or thrid, and the crux up high.

Witnessed by: Paul McGlaughlin, Ambrose Su
Added: 1977-07-14