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Book of Revelations - 5.11a

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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Rock
Lots of small cams, one #1 and one #2 usefull. Small set of nuts/med to small.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

This is a five pitch climb which is easy to bail from on almost every pitch. The first pitch climbs an awkward angled crack with a few unstable moves. The second pitch clmbs a somewhat dirty liebacking crack to bolts. Third pitch is more of an approach to the fourth while the two last pithces climb a somewhat dirty lieback crack. Most don't bother, but those who do most likely wont regret it. Rap from bolts down a 4th class ramp and then down to the bolts on bishops terrace. Two 50m ropes make things easier but are not manditory.

Submitted by: salamanizer on 2005-08-30
Views: 867
Route ID: 69285

4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2011-05-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Maybe the first to complete route in 20 years

We did the whole route. I found it enjoyable, but more like adirondacks climbing than Yosemite.

The first two pitches are great. Pitch 1 takes a variety of midsized gear to a traverse. I protected the moves past the traverse with an offset redyellow alien. Care is required with pro because of the traversing nature.
Pitch 2 is above a ledge . Follow the left crack 20 ft and then traverse right. The crux is just past the traverse, and green an yellow aliens are needed to protect the move. These are tough to place.

Wander up to and through trees. Take line up a slab above, and then left to a small roof in the left most corner. Pass the roof, and then follow crack to a rightward traverse to a horn/sling belay--hollow, #3 camalot backup. Follow crack above, through fist and a bit of OW to another rightward traverse. An old four inch bong is slung for belay. Back this up with a #1 or 4 camalot.
Above, follow a thin hard to protect corner above a ledge. The critical piece is a purple mastercam/tcu. Above this corner, traverse right and follow several more corners, which deteriorate as you climb higher and traverse further right. The last 30 ft are unprotected vertical hummock climbing to a chockstone. There, you will find 6 ft of our rope with a carabiner.
About right for 11a. I found all the higher pitches old style 5.9

Added: 2011-05-13

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: sanarteaga on 2010-05-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars do it

great route... pitch one is very weird... pitch two is all about balance and finger jams... awesome route

Added: 2010-06-07

Ratings
  Difficulty
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: caughtinside on 2006-05-06 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Only did first .10d pitch, 3 hangs. Powerful cruxy start, to easier climbing and airy/balancy traverse. I can definitely get this clean, maybe next go. Interesting info in routes DB that this is 5ps, may have to do that... oh yeah, glad I had the yellow/green hybrid alien low, and the red/yellow to protect after the traverse.

Witnessed by: sunshine
Added: 2006-05-06

Ratings
  Difficulty
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: spyork on 2006-05-05 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

This was my first aid lead. It was tricky to clean because of the traverse. Only did first pitch.

Added: 2006-05-05