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More Balls than Brains - A3

Average Rating = 4.33/5 Average Rating : 4.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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(Trad) Aid
PG13
1
Hardware: Rivet Hangers, Rurps, Baby Angles, Bat Hooks. (There are fixed heads and places for them, but no need to place them)
50
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty A3
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 3.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

Aid crack 10' to the right of Church Bowl Tree. Bathook then rivet then bathook then rivet then iron the rest of the way to the top.

Descent Options:

Rap from quicklinks on bolts

Submitted by: cobbledik on 2010-08-30
Views: 660
Route ID: 106386

Topo Images

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ngolden02 on 2014-06-13 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars great mock-aid climb

was on tr but aided with talons & tomahawks cool bro

Added: 2014-09-11

Ratings
  Difficulty A3
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: josiahdood on 2011-03-09 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great aid practice

TR aided this. Tried to do it clean and got close. Used the smallest DMM brass nut for one of the rurp scars - suprised it held. There are some fixed heads up higher on the route. Rurps or tomahawks would make this cake. A fall from the first hooking move or two wouldn't be pretty.

Added: 2011-03-09

Ratings
  Difficulty A3
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: cobbledik on 2010-08-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars fun times.

Sketchy reach from bathook to second rivet. Probably would not do it on lead because the fall will swing you into a large sharp flake on the ground if the 1st rivet holds. If it doesn't hold then the flake is less of an issue.

TR by climbing CB Tree and then tension traverse over or lower to obvious shelf and pendulum up to anchors.

First rivet is a 1/4" piece of manky yumyumws.

You can do a variation in from the left that follows a line of 3 bathooks to the 2nd rivet.

Added: 2010-08-30