Was a hairwidth from my first .10a redpoint (or even flash), when I slipped trying to decipher the face section at the top and fell at the bolt- d'oh!! Next try I hang-dogged it even more. Finally redpointed it this year. Good pro', a nice sustained crux section, & just an overall really fun climb!
This climb is very well protected until the top. A nut or two can be slotted beneath the crux mini-roof. Save a few medium-sized cams for the mini-roof and crack above (I used a #3 Metolius cam in the roof and a #6 Metolius cam high in the crack above). From the fixed pin there is about 12' (maybe less) of 5.8 face to the next crack for pro, but this can be easily bypassed by traversing about 20' left on a narrow (1-2") ledge (about 5.5 but no pro) to the top of Church Bowl Lieback. If taking the traverse option (which I took), scramble up to the next tree to belay so the follower can't pendulum into the corner of Church Bowl Lieback. I used 8 pieces of gear and clipped into a bolt and fixed pin above the roof. The crux is probably the move reaching up to the roof, but for a leader the crux is hanging on to place gear in the crack above the roof.