Starts in shady corner just to the right of where the approach trail hits the wall. First pitch is an easy and somewhat aesthetic chimney to a fixed belay. The headwall crack looms above. There are some grovely but not too hard OW moves to access the headwall. Crack through the headwall has bomber jams and some killer knobs to help you through it. Believe it or not, this is not the crux. Cop an enema/rest then get psyched for the crux flared fingers for the final 25 feet. My favorite route on the Cookie and you will never have to wait in line for it.
Submitted by: crackmd on 2004-07-14
Last Modified: 2012-05-31
Route ID: 55945
The first access pitch is a breeze, the headwall is pumpy. Overhanging hands and fingers with an occasional flaired jam/fist thrown in. The crux was definately just below the big knob/jug while the last 25ft was no gimmie either but much easier, less pumpy but more techy gear wise. The gear's bomber the whole way, but a bit hard to place in spots I thought. Almost blew the onsight a couple times.