Starts on a perfect tight hands crack and quickly opens to a chemney. Pitch two is a strait in offwidth which stays pretty consistantly 5 inch the whole way. Levetation technique will make it much easier. Save a few small to medium pieces for the belay in the alcove, a 4" cam is helpfull but not necessary for the anchor. Pitch three climbs a wild overhang out the alcove to a blind tight hands crack out left. The good hand crack quickly gets easier though much more grainy as you ascend. Pitch 4 is a short 4th class hike up some dirt and munge to below the exit pitches. Three variations exist. The left crack in the corner is a stout and slightly grainy .10c fist crack, the crack in the middle that arches out slightly left is a grainy .10 hand crack. The right variation (the original) is a grainy and very coarse 5.9 hand crack covered in gravel.
Walk off to the left.
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2009-03-15
Route ID: 98259
A pretty good route all around but with just a bit of adventureous crap thrown in. The second pitch is a great intro to .10+ offwidths. Just a tad easier than Generator crack for compairison but much easier to protect. The third pitch is a bit chossy but fun and wildly exposed while being easy to protect the whole way. The exit pitches all suck, but you gotta do one. The proud exit is the wild looking .10b corner on the left. A grainy nasty fist crack all the way to the end. The other two exits are total choss and very coarse. Watch for loose debris on the top out. The .10 hands exit had a large dead tree branch guarding it which you would have to trundle to get past when we were up there last. Be weary of your second when topping out.