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East Buttress of El Cap - 5.10b popular

Average Rating = 4.75/5 Average Rating : 4.75 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (17)
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Allen Steck, Wili Siri, Dick Long and Willi Unsoeld, June 1953
Rock
R
13
One set of nuts; cams up to 3" or larger depending if you do the offwidth or the fact on pitch 9; do
1500
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.69/5
  Rock Quality 4.54/5
  Scenery 4.77/5
  Fun Factor 4.69/5

Description:

5.10b. Grade IV. 13 pitches. Stout. Old valley classic. Bolt at crux moving off first pitch has been chopped as of 10.2006. Better have all your climbing skills in order: chimney, offwidth, crack and face. It's got it all.

Submitted by: rampage on 2006-10-17
Last Modified: 2012-06-02
Views: 3231
Route ID: 80693

Most Recent Photos (See all 6 photos)

17 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 17 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: captaincrimp on 2012-06-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Good Story

woke up late and got some friends to drop us off at the trail head. hiked up the talus to the base in the sun. my buddy looks over at me and says, "where's the rope?". we left it. at least there was a beautiful view to eat lunch and contemplate our shame. some italians bailed on the pitch 2 chimney and I told them of our predicament. the friendly euros let us borrow their rope and we finished as the sun set by simul-climbing the easy sections!



Added: 2014-03-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: USnavy on 2012-05-31 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars a

a

Added: 2012-05-31

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: scottydo on 2011-07-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars super fun route

definitely worth a second go!

Added: 2011-10-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: andrea37 on 2010-09-22 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Sweet to climb on El Cap!

P1&2 are in your face, then it eases up for a bit. Get the camera ready for P4, awesome Valley view. Top of P8 becomes exposed and difficult. P9 is the dreaded OW and it doesn't disappoint. P11 (the traverse) is very airy and exposed; thankfully they are only 5.8 face moves. After that, it's smooth sailing to the top. We did it as a party of 3 and we were pressed for time. Hiked in at the Nose and followed the base of the cliffline--took about an hour. Started climbing around 6:30 or 7am, topped out around 7pm, didn't have much daylight to find the rap rings. I think we found the line that is furthest down and to your climbers right. All 4 rap lines were in solid shape and probably only took us 45minutes to an hour. About an hour hike out. Definitely a fun, fun time.

Added: 2010-10-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: tahoe523 on 2009-09-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars no ants, no water falls, great climb!

there's no longer a bolt off the 2nd pitch, you are immediately into the crux, but you can protect the left side before shuffling to the right into some fingerlocks and side pulls. finished in exactly 4 hours. approach, at a brisk pace, is about 45 minutes. decent still took 2 full hours. static ropes are all decent, but we put my rope as backup on the last rappel.

Added: 2009-09-16

... Read all 17 ascent notes