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East Buttress of El Cap - 5.10b popular

Average Rating = 4.83/5 Average Rating : 4.83 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (13)
Allen Steck, Wili Siri, Dick Long and Willi Unsoeld, June 1953
Rock
9
One set of nuts; cams up to 3" or larger depending if you do the offwidth or the fact on pitch 9; do
1200
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.78/5
  Rock Quality 4.44/5
  Scenery 4.78/5
  Fun Factor 4.78/5

Description:

5.10b. Grade IV. 13 pitches. Stout. Old valley classic. Bolt at crux moving off first pitch has been chopped as of 10.2006. Better have all your climbing skills in order: chimney, offwidth, crack and face. It's got it all.

Submitted by: rampage on 2006-10-17
Views: 1054
Route ID: 80693

Most Recent Photos (See all 6 photos)

13 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 13 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: tahoe523 on 2009-09-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars no ants, no water falls, great climb!

there's no longer a bolt off the 2nd pitch, you are immediately into the crux, but you can protect the left side before shuffling to the right into some fingerlocks and side pulls. finished in exactly 4 hours. approach, at a brisk pace, is about 45 minutes. decent still took 2 full hours. static ropes are all decent, but we put my rope as backup on the last rappel.

Added: 2009-09-16

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: farmlivingisthelifeforme on 2008-11-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Absolutely Incredible

Lots of fun. I think the 5.9 crux on pitch 8 is the most exposed pitch I've ever been on. Mindblowing.
Seconded the 10b crux and lead a 5.9 pitch

Added: 2009-09-01

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: eazyclimb on 2007-09-12 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars East Buttress, El Cap

fun route with only a few crux sections.

Added: 2008-09-24

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jonnykwong on 2004-03-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars abc

w/DS

Added: 2008-03-05

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: buju on 2007-09-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars sweeeet

ertty damn cool to be climbing on the capitan

Added: 2007-11-16

... Read all 13 ascent notes