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The Reticent Wall - A5 popular

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 10
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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Extra beaks, LAs and KBs, lots of hooks, more heads than Supertopo suggests, 60m ropes(!)
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7 A4+
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Here is a route that contains not one but two Real Live Death Pitches! This Steve Gerberding and Scott Stowe masterpiece has some of the reachiest rivets on the Captain, and will have you struggling in your topsteps just to clip 'em. Lay Lady Ledge, from which The Reticent Wall starts, is a brilliant and roomy bivi, big enough even to unrope! Above this you will follow six pitches of thin and sustained climbing to reach Wino Tower, where you can still find shards of glass from Warren Harding's wine bottles. This is a great place to hang out while you get somebody else to lead the pitch above. When you finally reach the plush sidewalk-width bivi below the New Wave A5 pitch, take a good look at the ledge. If you goof the crux, this will be the last thing you see before you die as you bounce off the ledge while flying by en route to a three hundred and fifty foot fall where you rip the whole pitch!

Submitted by: passthepitonspete on 2006-03-26
Views: 5239
Route ID: 5207

Most Recent Photo

5 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7 A4+
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: JacekCzyz3 on 1999-06-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars :)

Did 4-th solo ascent and 10 overall June 1999

Added: 2010-02-26

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating X
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: holdplease2 on 2007-10-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Rope recommendations

I'd recommend a 70 meter rope, as a 60 will get you to some stations with stretch. Also, take as many small, medium, and large beaks and small arrows as you can carry. A 200 foot nailing pitch takes a ton of gear, and there are some 200 foot cracks that never get wider than a #2 lost arrow.

Also, At 5'4", I found that the rivits were still 12-18 inches away when I was in my top steps. There are probably 600 feet of rivits on this route, so its a huge time-consumer if you don't have a tall partner or a dialed system for dealing with this.

-Kate.

Added: 2007-10-19

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: b_fost on 2004-08-29 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2004-08-29

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: passthepitonspete on 1998-10-01 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

<br><br><b>Pretty Darn Hard!</b><br>

<br>I have started a <b>photo essay,</b> which is also <b>Dr. Piton's Statement of Identity and Credibility where he provides a reference.</b><br>

<br>You can click here to <a href="http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=ListPhoto&PhotoID=1918"><b>begin the photo essay of Reticent Wall.</b></a><br>

Witnessed by: Sean Easton and Chris Geisler
Added: 1998-10-01

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: bigwaller on 1997-11-01 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

we did the 5th ascent of this route over 9 days..we fixed and hauled 3 on the 31st of Oct, then bailed to el portal for the halloween party then jugged on the 1st for 8 more days total time...a great route with lots of hooks and heads...i must say that the crux pitch looked way desperate except for the fact of the drilled holes we found and subsequently hammered off...a great time with two exceptional partners...i would do it again for sure...

Witnessed by: russ mitrovich and warren hollinger
Added: 1997-11-01