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Bermuda Dunes - A4+ popular

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 26
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Usual gear, with an emphasis on KBs and RURPs/beaks/peckers, 9" Valley Giants for the wide stuff.
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This stunning natural line straight up El Cap's spectacular Southwest Face has received only three additional ascents since its first in 1984, perhaps because of its previously difficult-to-protect offwidths. You'll find plenty of hard nailing [at least one pitch being Pretty Darn Hard!] along with spooky wide cracks, perfect laser-straight head seams, surprisingly few hook moves, and grassy and dirty A1 cracks. What is most amazing is how few rivet ladders there are for so long a route! Destined to become a future classic. The first ascensionists free climbed up to 5.11, but you won't find anything harder than obligatory 5.9. NOTE: PTPP and Apollodorus repaired all the rotten belay bolts, but not the lead bolts. Don't use the pro bolt midway up P6; use a cam in the crack.

Submitted by: apollodorus on 2006-03-26
Views: 2497
Route ID: 36529

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3 Ascents Recorded

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Red Point Red Point ascent by: b_fost on 2004-08-29 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2004-08-29

Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: apollodorus on 2003-06-08 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

An amazingly pristine and natural line, straight up the tallest section of the SW face. Our 13 day ascent included bringing firewood for two nights' barbeques at the Alcove. We replaced most of the old and rotten bolts with shiny new 3/8" x 2" ones. We spent approximately 40 hours just pulling and drilling and driving in bolts. The only old bolts we left were pro bolts mid-pitch and some belay bolts that made no sense because they were right next to cracks. The two belays in the OW leading to the Alcove were rebolted, even though the crack takes big cams, because that seems to be a popular free variation for the Salathe. And speaking of which, the absolute worst part of the route were the few pitches shared with the Salathe. The best part was the Fish Head Crack pitch up and over a big roof (the second in two pitches), leading to an amazing amount of air. Our haul bags hung free, and twisted around each other in the updrafts. I had to go down 150 feet, hanging about forty feet from the wall, and fight the two pigs while swinging around in a high wind. Nice.

Witnessed by: PTPP
Added: 2003-06-08

Red Point Red Point ascent by: passthepitonspete on 2003-05-23 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Tom and I spent thirteen nights on the wall, and had a superb time! He'll tell you more about it for now - I've got limited email access from Yosemite. Watch for another photo essay if and when I ever get home.

Witnessed by: Tom Kasper [apollodorus] and Wee-Wee
Added: 2003-05-23