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Jolly Roger - A5 popular

Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 50
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
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Aid
Every, and I do mean EVERY, trick in the book, and plenty you'll have to invent along the way!
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c A4+
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 4.67/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.67/5

Description:

Arr, May-tees! Shiver me timbers! A brilliant, difficult, scary and intimidating line up a proud part of the Big Stone. Its combination of difficult runout free climbing and pretty darn hard aid has turned away many would-be suitors. Bailing onto Sunkist at the 16th belay does not entitle you to claim an ascent, since you missed the crux aid pitch! Jolly Roger is certainly one of the hardest climbs on El Cap to get up, because your team needs to be competent in both free and aid climbing. On the sixth pitch, the mantel at the end of the hundred-foot 5.10 runout will keep you on your toes, as will the 5.11x handslaps off of Mammoth. As for the aid, you'll find talons and pointed Chouinards to be indispensable. After Jolly Roger, all other hooking will feel trivial! By the time you top out, a #1 head will seem bomber because you'll have used so many #0 heads, - make sure you bring tons of these little guys. Confessing all your sins and updating your will ahead of time wouldn't be a bad idea, either.

Submitted by: passthepitonspete on 2006-03-26
Views: 2462
Route ID: 4886

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6 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b A4+
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: JacekCzyz3 on 2000-06-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars :) :) :)

Did 9 ascent in 9.5 days. mantel at the end of the 70-80' runout was no mantel for me and 5.9 instead 5.8 because I'm short. Just big eyes. 5.11x handslaps off of Mammoth we did as 5.9 A0 tencion traverse from something fixed 15' to leader right. Crux pitch realy fun and dangerous. Take 5h.

Added: 2010-02-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c A4+
  Safety Rating X
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: fearlessclimber on 2008-10-28 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Super rad Line up the captain

Had a good time on this one. Took a massive fall on one of the A4 pitches and relead the pitch successfully although I really did not want to go back up on it, took some nerves to get back on the pitch. Time to climb the wall was 6 days.

Added: 2008-11-09

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c A4+
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: rexcarrs on 2007-09-24 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Not for the meek

Hard aid, bad fall potential, hard to find hooks & rivets make this suitable for very experienced aid climbers or headstrong fools. Have your act together for this one. It helps to be tall for many of the pitches.

Added: 2008-01-12

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: b_fost on 2004-08-29 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2004-08-29

Ratings
  Difficulty
Flash Flash ascent by: thephil160 on 2002-09-04 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Free Ascent

Witnessed by: Johnathon Bosert
Added: 2002-09-04

... Read all 6 ascent notes