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Lurking Fear - A2+ popular

Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 20
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (28)
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Aid
Goes clean on traditional gear - if aiding, you'll need hooks and possibly heads.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9 A2
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.40/5
  Rock Quality 4.40/5
  Scenery 4.80/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

This route has been free climbed once. It goes at 5.13c or C2+F clean (no hammer) for much of the way, but most parties carry one in case any heads are missing. Not to mention you'll need it to clean your nuts used on aid. The haul up to Thanksgiving Ledge is absolutely atrocious, and surely one of the worst, if not the worst pitch you'll ever have to haul on El Cap. That particular pitch has a reputation for trashing haul lines, and would be an ideal place to use a "Far End Hauler" system. Lurking Fear is one of El Cap's five aid trade routes, the other four being The Shield, Mescalito, Tangerine Trip and Zodiac. It's a good first aid wall because it's fairly easy, not too long, and much less crowded than its most similar rival, Zodiac. You'll find some of El Cap's finest cracklines on Lurking Fear - laser-cut and pristine, straight out of the picture books. If you survive the approach, the climb'll feel like a "piece of piss".

Submitted by: dave5_10 on 2006-05-22
Last Modified: 2012-02-06
Views: 2778
Route ID: 4499

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28 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sanarteaga on 2010-05-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars great!

try to reach pitch 14 for bivy which is far superior to the sloping one on pitch 10-11...

Added: 2010-06-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9 A2
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: tklein on 2006-05-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun Adventure

Flawless cracks, good exposure, some good free climbing makes this route really fun. The second half doesn't compare to the quality that first part of it has to offer.
Bring a some wide gear.


Added: 2009-10-11

Ratings
  Difficulty A2
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fearlessclimber on 2008-05-21 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars sick

nice easy climbing up the tall part of the wall

Added: 2008-10-21

Ratings
  Difficulty A2+
  Safety Rating G
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: tradclimber14 on 2008-06-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Hell yes!

I love the exposure until the pitch 12 traverse! I would leave the portaledge at home. Bivy around pitch 11 on the ledge around the buttress, then bivy at thanx ledge or the summit. Great first wall!

Added: 2008-10-15

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jonnykwong on 2004-03-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars w/tb

failed at doing it in a day. slept in cave near top. humbling

Added: 2008-03-05

... Read all 28 ascent notes