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Son of Heart (Heart Woute) - A3+

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a A3
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

This is a great wall. There is some dirt and seasonal water on the first few pitches off Heart Ledge, but the upper region is A+++. There is not much loose rock, but keep your eyes open for a loose tombstone midway up that you will want to grab and pull up onto. The two chimney pitches are gnarly and scary, even with big cams. The roof pitch is fantastic. The crux aid pitch, Tonsillectomy Traverse, doesn't follow a crack, but a horizontal band of rotten/grainy rock with pockets and tunnels. Climb either the Heart Route or Muir to Heart Ledge, or cheat and use the Salathe fixed ropes that are perpetually there. Wander back and forth on the first pitch off Heart Ledge to keep it 5.7 or so. Don't haul to the sloping ledge at the bottom of the Kierkegaard (lower) chimney; haul to a small ledge midway up the next pitch (a 60m rope will work). The penjy left into a dirt hummock corner is stupid; a cheater stick and hook could be used instead. The best place to bivy is below the roof at the start of the Tonsillectomy Traverse. The final pitch is really hard to haul; have the cleaner baby-sit the pig up that knobby slab.

Submitted by: apollodorus on 2006-03-26
Views: 1570
Route ID: 74040

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a A3
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: rexcarrs on 2008-09-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars A slendid route!

I gotta give Rick Sylvester major props for doing this in 1971 without modern cams & such. A very inspired effort!

Added: 2008-09-18

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: apollodorus on 2004-10-08 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

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Witnessed by: Pass The Pitons Pete Zabrok
Added: 2004-10-08