Routes : North America : United States : California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Southwest Face: El Capitan : The Nose
PreviousThe Nose - A2 popular
Average Rating : 4.97 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 80
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (60)
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Warren Harding and friends/suckers
Aid
PG13
31
Traditional gear. No hammer, except to clean. Leeper cam hooks useful.
31000
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Description:
This is the all time classic El Cap route, and possibly the most famous rock climb in the world. It's also the first El Cap route, finally succumbing to Warren Harding in November, 1958 after 45 days of climbing over 18 months. The Nose goes straight up the proud south-facing prow of El Cap, and is without doubt the most sought-after big wall climb in the world. Lynn Hill has free climbed the route at 5.13b in under 24 hours, and in 2005 Tommy Caldwell free climbed both the Nose and Freerider in under 24 hours, falling only 4 times. The next closest person was Scott Burke, with a tenacity that put even the first ascensionist, Warren Harding, to shame, Scott Burke worked for approximately 200 days to finally free climb the route, but he climbed the then-wet "Great Roof" pitch on toprope. Along with the West Face and Salathe Wall, the Nose is an El Cap route where you won't need your portaledge. There are bivis all along the route, with El Cap Towers being the primo campsite. You'd best keep your eye on your rear-view mirror when climbing here - over a short period in the fall of 2001, the speed record was broken three times. The previous record time stood at 2:48:30 by Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine in 2002. The current record, set on October 8th 2007, stands at 2:45:45 which was set by Alexander and Thomas Huber. And then Hirayama and Florine beat that record again, current best is 2:37:05.
Submitted by: jcpace on 2008-03-26
Last Modified: 2012-02-06
Views: 5745
Route ID: 4506
Most Recent Photos (See all 40 photos)
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60 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 60 ascent notes
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| Difficulty | 5.11b A2 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Hang Dog ascent by:
The most classic of all time!!
Waited 22 years to finally do this route, but the wait was so totally worth it. A life changing experience for sure! I had a magical time with an amazing partner. Even in my wildest dreams, I could not have dreamed up a more perfect ascent!
Added: 2011-07-21
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| Difficulty | 5.11c A1 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
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The best
Did this in 1995, and then an 18 hour ascent in 1997. If you can save it, climbing above the corners pitch is super.
Added: 2011-02-02
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| Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by:
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Added: 2010-10-13
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | A2 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
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One of the best lines in the world!
First time on El Cap, 2.5 days on the wall. The decent sucked with a full rack and two 70m ropes. The line is harder then C1. The Great Roof seemed like C1+ and the Changing Corners and start of the pitch right after Camp VI (Glowering Spot?) seemed like C2. Overall and amazing line, well worth the work.
Added: 2010-06-19
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | A1 |
| Safety Rating | G |
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Foursome to celebrate his 60 birthday
Nothing special... Good weather. Saw free climbers... Great to see these guys.
Added: 2010-05-05
