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The Nose - A2 popular

Average Rating = 4.93/5 Average Rating : 4.93 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 80
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (61)
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Warren Harding and friends/suckers
Aid
PG13
31
Traditional gear. No hammer, except to clean. Leeper cam hooks useful.
31000
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a A2
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.72/5
  Rock Quality 4.88/5
  Scenery 4.92/5
  Fun Factor 4.80/5

Description:

This is the all time classic El Cap route, and possibly the most famous rock climb in the world. It's also the first El Cap route, finally succumbing to Warren Harding in November, 1958 after 45 days of climbing over 18 months. The Nose goes straight up the proud south-facing prow of El Cap, and is without doubt the most sought-after big wall climb in the world. Lynn Hill has free climbed the route at 5.13b in under 24 hours, and in 2005 Tommy Caldwell free climbed both the Nose and Freerider in under 24 hours, falling only 4 times. The next closest person was Scott Burke, with a tenacity that put even the first ascensionist, Warren Harding, to shame, Scott Burke worked for approximately 200 days to finally free climb the route, but he climbed the then-wet "Great Roof" pitch on toprope. Along with the West Face and Salathe Wall, the Nose is an El Cap route where you won't need your portaledge. There are bivis all along the route, with El Cap Towers being the primo campsite. You'd best keep your eye on your rear-view mirror when climbing here - over a short period in the fall of 2001, the speed record was broken three times. The previous record time stood at 2:48:30 by Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine in 2002. The current record, set on October 8th 2007, stands at 2:45:45 which was set by Alexander and Thomas Huber. And then Hirayama and Florine beat that record again. Current best is 2:23:46 (Florine and Honnold in 2012).

Submitted by: jcpace on 2008-03-26
Last Modified: 2013-10-03
Views: 6456
Route ID: 4506

Most Recent Photos (See all 40 photos)

61 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b A2
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: captaincrimp on 2011-06-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Classic

big wall style. fix to syckle. sleep on dolt. sleep at camp IV. sleep at camp VI. Summit. Sleep on top next to fire.

Amazing adventure and great life experience.

Added: 2014-03-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a A1
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: coryberkebile on 2013-04-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great Route

A red and yellow Black Diamond C3 makes the great roof cruiser. Really fun route, had the route to mostly to ourselves.

Added: 2013-11-01

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b A2
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: lithophiliac on 2011-06-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars The most classic of all time!!

Waited 22 years to finally do this route, but the wait was so totally worth it. A life changing experience for sure! I had a magical time with an amazing partner. Even in my wildest dreams, I could not have dreamed up a more perfect ascent!

Added: 2011-07-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c A1
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: stevecurtis on 1997-06-21 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars The best

Did this in 1995, and then an 18 hour ascent in 1997. If you can save it, climbing above the corners pitch is super.

Added: 2011-02-02

Ratings
  Difficulty A2
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: USnavy on 2010-06-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars One of the best lines in the world!

First time on El Cap, 2.5 days on the wall. The decent sucked with a full rack and two 70m ropes. The line is harder then C1. The Great Roof seemed like C1+ and the Changing Corners and start of the pitch right after Camp VI (Glowering Spot?) seemed like C2. Overall and amazing line, well worth the work.

Added: 2010-06-19

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