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West Face - 5.11d popular

Average Rating = 4.70/5 Average Rating : 4.70 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 10
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (21)
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Standard rack - consult the free climbing guide.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.62/5
  Rock Quality 4.75/5
  Scenery 4.75/5
  Fun Factor 4.62/5

Description:

This free climb is an absolutely superb outing that for some reason does not get the attention it deserves. This may be because it's difficult, or perhaps because it has a semi-long approach. Maybe people just don't know how bitchin' it really is! This is an absolute MUST DO for free climbers. Although there is some 5.11c and d on the thing, you could aid those bits. The easier 11 pitches are the first two, so you'll know down low if you'll make it or not. You'd better be solid on runout Yosemite 5.10, at the very least.

Submitted by: passthepitonspete on 2006-03-26
Views: 2204
Route ID: 4884

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21 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: A-Bowl on 2010-06-24 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Amazing varied stone!

Lead the 1st and 3rd crux pitches and followed the other 2. Swapped leads with my girlfriend for an amazing day and a half. The 3rd crux 11c should definately be linked... just keep the gear a little spaced and have a 70... otherwise you'll be thinking bout belaying off the anchors (what?) in the middle of the hardest part of the whole climb. Don't do that... just clip em and keep grunting it out. The climbing is all you could ask for. Awesome 11b for the first two pitches gets you in the zone to cruise the rest. With a little endurance and mental strength you'll pull of the other 2 cruxes. The other 15 pitches are amazing... lotsa 5.10 moves and great exposure. the Cave on thanksgiving ledge pitch 15 is huge.... take off the harness and camp out in the best bivy the world has to offer. we hauled a mini bag which was hard in only a couple spots... well it made linking pitch 6 $ 7 interesting since the 50 m haul line i had made me carry the pig on my ass for the last 10 meters of that pitch... luckily the crux was done and i was in the sandybag 5.7. Well worth it though for the comforts and the much needed break from the overcrowded valley floor. 1st thing i did after getting back down to find my truck was broken into by a bear and getting that out of the impound was buy an 8.5mm 70m. oohh the good times!

Added: 2010-06-27

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: JacekCzyz3 on 2003-09-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars :)

Did 2xA0

Added: 2010-02-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: stevecurtis on 1999-06-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars superb

first pitch run out 5.10 next several pitches 11 slab. If yu make it through these you are probably OK, however, there is a pitch high--16? that is definitely 10 R (or was 10 years ago). There is another section about pitch 12-15 that is fantastic overhanging 5.10 features with occasional pro.We were on the route 9 hours. really a fun route

Added: 2009-10-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: tklein on 2007-03-24 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Five Star Rock

A quality free route and it's on EC.
Partner led most of it.
Tends to be a little wet in early spring.

Added: 2009-10-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: superbum on 2008-05-31 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars big and hard

that's what she said...lots of quality climbing...sustained...a tiny bit sandbagged...full value.

onsighted the first two cruxes, then frenchied the upper two. humbling...in a good way!

Added: 2008-05-31

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