Start up a dirty left facing corner to a ledge. Pitch 2 climbs a flairing steep offwidth to a rest then hand traverses left to more offwidth. More sustained tight offwidth finally leads to a short hand crack and a nice belay ledge. Pitch 3 climbs a tight hands crack to a belay in an old eagle nest. Pitch 3 climbs a tight squeeze chimney to a thin fingers crack. Make a difficult steep mantle move out of the corner and exit to the right to the summit.
Walk off from the top.
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2010-06-14
Route ID: 105345
This route is a bit sandbagged but a really awesome wide yosemite route. Pitch one in the guide says 5.8. Expect 5.10 climbing up a dirty crack making a .10+ move near the top around the corner via some edges on the face to the right. Pitch two starts in a difficult overhanging flaring hand crack corner and quickly opens to a difficult .10d+ offwidth. Soon you exit on a hand traverse left to more offwidth. More .10+ offwidth goes on for another 100ft passing several cruxes and staying rather sustained to a good belay ledge. Pitch 3 climbs a tight hands crack up a nice crack with a decent coating of bird poo. This route is rated .10a in the book but may be just a tad harder. Pitch 4 rated 5.8 in the book starts with some overhanging hands and quickly moves into a tight squeeze chimney. This squeeze is about the same difficulty as Ahab. After the squeeze you end up climbing a quickly steepening corner fingercrack which has a .10+ exit move to a big ledge system. Exit the ledge to the right up mildly rotten rock to the summit. I felt quite sandbagged the whole way but the climbing is really good and the protection is good. Definitely one to add to the Valley offwidth circuit.