Nice 4 pitch climb to make for a full day. Committing 5.7/8 moves. Challenging route finding. Mind blowing topout crux flake that's pretty much a free-solo considering the runout and last pro placed. Communication issues if the falls are roaring. Located about 120 yards right of Commitment topout trail junction, about 40 yards from the end of the trail that skirted along bottom of upper wall, at the second of two right facing corner encountered.
Scramble to top and walk down the big wide Yosemite Falls Trail.
Submitted by: baja_java on 2007-04-26
Route ID: 66943
First attempt (09/28/13) Lead P1, and thought it was very strenuous for 5.7 ow. Bailed at 4pm b/c it was getting to late to finish with daylight. Second attempt (4/5/14) Linked up with Commitment. (P1,P3 of Commitment) Lead P2,P4 of Salaginella; Perfect link up for a gorgeous day (Actually harder than commitment). Tony lead P1 and P3. What a great route . It would be 5 star if it was not for P2 and P3. Be careful specially with P3 because the topo is not very descriptive. It is not very intuitively that you have to clip the piton and do the "wild" move; it is an exposed move to gain a ledge where you traverse left. (We got a little bit off route but we climbed down and did the traverse that we missed initially). P1 and P4 are definitely 5 stars and really have it all: hand jams, little ow, finger section with stem moves to top it all aff with an airy layback finish at the chimney. (A must do!) At the end once you get to the falls trail make sure you go right to see the falls (Don't miss out!). Trail down to the base goes left.
A lot easier than Supertopo plays it out to be and the wide cracks are only on pitch 1 and are nothing to be afraid of as they have a handcrack in the back. There is some route finding but common sense should find the right way. A few loose sections on pitch 1 but other than that I would recommend it based on exposure, nice climbing, and a cool topout location only a 100 yards from the falls vista.