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Anchors Away - 5.11a

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Tim Harrison, Mike Breidenbach (1972)
Rock (Trad)
R
2
Draws. Cams, few small finger sized pieces.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.50/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

Climbs up a beautiful section of the apron. A good 40 ft and a reachy move brings you to the first bolt. From there the runnouts seem all of a sudden reasonable. Beautiful and graceful movement past several more bolts, a funky left facing flake then a glass smooth short traverse to the anchors. Pitch two starts up more polish and features several cruxy sections and finally a perplexing series of moves to the anchors. All the bolts are new and bomber courtesy of the ASCA.

Descent Options:

Rappel from BOMBER ring anchors.

Submitted by: salamanizer on 2009-10-08
Views: 829
Route ID: 101973

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: FloydHayes on 1983-06-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fixed Pin

Back in 1983 I took my longest leader fall, a 30-footer, while trying to clip the 5th bolt. It was 6" above my outstretched fingers while I stood on a tiny but comfortable ledge beneath--I fell while trying to reach it. According to notes in my climbing journal, the 40' runout to the first bolt was protected somewhere by a fixed pin.

Added: 2012-01-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2009-09-27 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars """SPICY"""

The runout to the first bolt was wild. Mostly easy climbing accept for one reachy move just before the bolt. The rest was your typical thought provokeing pucker factor climbing on the apron.
Really fun and not a death route. No huge deadly runouts but certainly places where you wouldn't want to loose your focus.
Really good movement and climbing.

Added: 2009-10-08