Skip to Content

< Previous | Next >

Regular NW Face - 5.9 A1 popular

Average Rating = 4.92/5 Average Rating : 4.92 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (47)
Rock Aid
G
23
A couple sets of cams and nuts
2000
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a A1
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.88/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Great route, that goes all free with some variations. Good, easy aid climbing and lots of good free climbing. The Death Slabs approach is relatively tame.

Submitted by: benjo on 2008-03-26
Views: 1759
Route ID: 4953

Topo Image

Most Recent Photos (See all 9 photos)

47 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 47 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a A1
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: stevecurtis on 2009-10-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars One of the best

suberb climbing throughout. Well, there is the traverse. In 94 this required a bivy. Second time around 02 7 hours. Freeclimbed all but the aid ladder. First 11 d crux on zig zags hard, second one a bit easy.

Added: 2009-10-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c A1
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: munky on 2008-10-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Half Dome In a Day

Climbed in a day with Gray and Phil. Can't wait to do it again.

Added: 2008-10-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a A1
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: superbum on 2008-05-31 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars ina day

in a day w/ Cullen Kirk mid may 2008 12 hours base to summit.

Added: 2008-05-31

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.1
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: canmoron on 2008-05-18 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars My first grade VI

It seemed like one party/day was on this route over the last week or so.

Slabs approach beta: the 2nd last fixed rope has only 1 bolt. Someone should replace the other broken one. Also, it's wet and very sketchy getting between that fixed rope and the final one.

We almost got killed by rockfall at the bivy. There is lots of loose rock on the route, and anyone hauling would pose a considerable hazard to parties below. Had we not ducked behind a large tree I wouldn't be writing this. Bivying as far uphill as possible will minimize, but not eliminate rockfall hazard.

There is lots of garbage and even unburned TP (idiots!)around the bivy site. We hauled out a full bag of garbage and burned some of the TP. If every party helps a little it would make the bivy much more pleasant.

There is a black fixed rope on P1 that should probably be removed - it looks like it's been there a while.

Good belay ledges all the way make this a very pleasant route.

We fixed the first 3 pitches and then went for it the next day. A full moon greeted us on top.

There is a large, sketchy snow slope to cross to get back to the bivy. It's low angle but hard and the consequence of an unchecked slide would be disastrous.

Added: 2008-05-21

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jonnykwong on 2004-05-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars w/TB in a day

done after the w/e nose was climbed

Added: 2008-03-05

... Read all 47 ascent notes