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Regular NW Face - 5.9 A1 popular

Average Rating = 4.88/5 Average Rating : 4.88 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (57)
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Rock Aid
G
23
A couple sets of cams and nuts
2000
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a A1
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.94/5
  Rock Quality 4.76/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Great route, that goes all free with some variations. Good, easy aid climbing and lots of good free climbing. The Death Slabs approach is relatively tame.

Submitted by: benjo on 2008-03-26
Views: 5902
Route ID: 4953

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57 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c A1
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: captaincrimp on 2013-05-28 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars My Favorite Big Wall

this was my second time to climb this. all around fun and suffering.

Added: 2014-03-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b A1
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: zealotnoob on 2012-09-29 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars An Awesome Push

We landed at 2am in SFO, drove to Yose, checked in to Curry Village, started hiking the Death Slab approach at 2pm, started climbing at 7pm, topped out 30 hours later at 2am. The spring was dry so we skimped on water, taking 8L for the two of us. We downed 3 as we baked in the sun on the approach. We were dry for the last half of the climb. The weather was perfect! We bivied for 4 hours at the sloping ledge at P6 with just emergency blankets and nanopuffs. I nodded off for half an hour or so, my partner, maybe, 15 minutes, then we continued by full moon light. Doing it again, I'd want to leverage the daylight better. I'd also ditch the tag line.

Added: 2012-12-03

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: IsayAutumn on 2012-10-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars wow

More tired and dehydrated than perhaps I've ever been after a 30-hour push (with a 4-hour stop for a nap). Too tired to free most of the route, but the free climbing highlight was the chimney pitch through the window to the 10c splitter finger crack. Awesome.

Added: 2012-10-09

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9 A1
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: csproul on 2012-09-11 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars truly an

asskicking adventure. Thought the spring wasn't running so we carried 50 lbs of water (it was running) up the slabs for 5 hours. Slow going for me/us...22 hrs to get to BS, a few hours sleep, and another 12 hrs to top out. I was as spent as I have ever been. Not sure if fun is the right word, but an amazing climb.

Added: 2012-09-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9 A1
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: losinghand on 2011-08-06 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars First Big Wall!

Did the RNWF last weekend, my first Big Wall climb. We topped out on Saturday 8/6/11. A few thoughts and tidbits of advice:

We were a party of 3, with a haul bag. 1 had climbed the route before, and was fairly experienced on walls. 2 of us were not - both competent moderate trad climbers, and I had a solid background in rigging, hauling systems, jugging etc (I've worked as a rigger professionally).

We did the Death Slabs approach at first light on Wed, and it took us WAY longer than expected (like 6 hours). Part of this was having a friend as sherpa who wasn't a climber, and part was getting a bit lost on the slabs - but the approach was much longer and steeper than any of us expected. With heavy packs/haul bag, we found the approach pretty tiring and long. Still maybe better than hiking around - but not the easiest approach either.

Due to the long approach - we only ended up fixing the first 3 pitches (we had hoped for the first 5). 2 60m ropes did the trick. Both springs were running solid - so we pumped water for a while - about 33 liters total for the climb. We started up the fixed ropes just at sunrise - and had 2 BASE jumpers in squirrel suits surprise us overhead - pretty cool.

We were moving SLOW - largely due to hauling issues, and sorting out some rope management issues with the 3 of us. We hadn't really thought through good systems with the 3rd - so it was a mix of jugging the haul line, lowering out the bag/3rd at times, 2nd cleaning and re-clipping pieces etc. We learned some systems quick - but still only made it to Pitch 11 late for a bivy. Pitch 11 will fit 3 people, but isn't the coziest bivy ledge.

The next day, we had lots of hauling issues on the Chimneys and some traverses. Even slower moving than the day before, and we hit Pitch 16 at nightfall - getting ourselves a bit off-route. The Supertopo shows the top of pitch 16 as having a horn, with a single bolt below and right (correct belay), or a pair of bolts above and left (incorrect belay). We only saw one bolt on the left, so assumed that was the right spot. WRONG. We headed up right from, and a HUGE house-sized flake is extremely loose. The giant thing flexed under the weight of an aid move on a large (#3?) cam, and is a serious disaster waiting to happen. It spit the cam back out at us, scaring the pants of us, especially given the late hour. We eventually realized we were off route - and downclimbed to the correct belay, and made it to Big Sandy way, way, late (like 2am).

Big Sandy was a great, but short sleep, and we headed off in the am. We were moving better, but still hauling was slow and tedious. The chimney after Thank God Ledge seemed more trouble than it was worth, so we traversed further and aided around the left of the chimney. I cleaned TGL, and took a little tumble when the ledge tapers in and becomes narrower. The final pitch was trickier than 5.7 I felt - especially having to clean the traverse. On the final pendulum before heading up right on the 5.5 finish I had a cam pull - so ended up taking quite the scraper across the slab.

We topped out around 7:15pm - enough time for a bite to eat, some re-packing, and to get down the cables/steps before nightfall. A long hike back to the car, and we hit the Curry Village showers at 1am.

Booty call? We lost a Link-Cam somewhere in the middle (can't remember the pitch), our 3rd dropped a smaller BD cam at one point, and a #4 C4 should be stuck near the end of Thank God Ledge (none of them were placed by me, thank you very much!).

Great experience, I realize I probably should have trained more for it (endurance, jugging etc), and we needed to work out our rope management and systems better. But all in all, super glad I did it. And now happy to go back to some more moderate multi-pitch stuff for a while.


Added: 2011-08-12

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