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Snake Dike - 5.7 popular

Average Rating = 4.72/5 Average Rating : 4.72 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (111)
Rock
X
bolts, very few other to 1"
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.69/5
  Rock Quality 4.79/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.76/5

Description:

A long class 3 or 4 approach from Lost Lake leads to the base of the climb. Go up the right side of the slabs, then move left past a prominent bulge with trees, and then go right and up to the start of the climb. You can ascend the right side of the bulge by climbing into and past a tree; easy class 5 climbing. Look for a pine tree below a roof. Go left, go over the small roof, then move right. Go up a bit, then move left (5.7, protected by a bolt) to the dike. Watch out for the off-route dike and bolt to the right. Three pitches up the dike (belay bolts only, plus the odd runner or piece), and a couple more lead to class 3 slabs leading to the summit. Almost all of the climbing after the 5.7 friction move is 5.3 or less. The runouts are long, but the climbing is easy. This route is much easier than the Royal Arches, except for the approach and descent hikes. The 5.7 friction step crux is about two moves, well protected by a bolt. I led that part in 1983, and followed it in the same shoes 19 years later (no resole). 1st p. place a cam in a horizontal crack at the right side of the overhang to protect the friction moves. Then downclimb about 20 feet and do the friction moves diagonaly to the left corner of the overhang, gain the finger crack above the overhang back to the right, place a second pro in vertical cracks above the first pro and climb up a steep ledge to the bolts. 2nd p. Go right and then up to the right corner of the overhang. Place a pro below then step over and clip the bolt. Climb the dike to a 2 bolt ancor. 3rd p. Leave the dike by going up and left to a brake in the angle of the face. Clip in a hard to see bolt to the left. Observe and ignore an easy to see rusty bolt up by the dike. Do the friction moves to the left, step on the dike, enjoy, do not clip the 2 bolts, go up the dike to the next set of bolts after clipping a bolt on the right. The rest is obvious. When the bolts runout go up and to the left. On the slabs unroped (and exposed) follow the line of dry waterbeds in the granite to the top. Enjoy the view!

Submitted by: marius on 2002-08-10
Views: 1946
Route ID: 5022

Topo Images (See all 7 topos)

Most Recent Photos (See all 25 photos)

111 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: tahoe523 on 2009-09-27 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars D'oh. Learn from my 6 hour approach!

onsighting this approach would be more impressive than onsighting the climb. plenty of route beta, so I'll just stick to providing beta for the approach.

although i know better, I should have studied the supertopo over all the chatter I digested at Camp 4. When you're on the John Muir Trail don't veer left too early after you pass the bathrooms by Nevada Falls. Somehow I jumped left too soon, saw some carines and got excited. 2 hours later thinking that I was walking along half dome, I found out I was really on the alternative trail between Liberty Cap and Mt. Broderick and bottomed out back on the Mist Trail. I know. High-five, me.

Sounds idiotic, but if you're going *down* a gully, you're doing the alternative approach backwards. I was getting excited about carines in the wrong direction. Again, 20/20 hindsight.

The left off of John Muir isn't as obvious as people claim. It's less than a quarter mile or so after the junction by the Little Yosemite trail sign. Once you spot a heavily worn climber's trail, then yes, you are on the right path. There is no immediate cairn by the left, but there are Cairns past the left, which yes can take you back to the climber's trail, but it's hard to navigate after the sandy boulder-y area the book describes. Head back and you'll find the correct trail from the get-go. Aside from the killer detour, the climb was spectacular. Still finished in day light with a little headlamp action at the end of the hike down.

Cairns - an absolute blessing and can be a curse in disguise. It's easy to convince yourself you're going in the right direction. Be critical of your own assumptions.

Added: 2009-09-29

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Climber79 on 2009-07-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Always nice to climb this one !

Second ascent... Always spectacular and wonderful. So much fun !

Added: 2009-08-08

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mikemikaels on 2009-06-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Perfect!

I thought the friction move on P1 was hard, but I'm used to desert granite. I didn't see a couple of the bolts that were mentioned in Supertopo, (except for 5.7 P3 move (which was super easy I thought)). Its runout, but with the jugs, I think it would be unlikely to fall. This climb is worth every star.

Added: 2009-07-14

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sgreer on 2009-06-28 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Booty

Screamed up this thing with Joel L. Also picked up some booty! A new BD #1 Camalot on the first pitch and a #7 BD stopper on the last! Every time I climb SD I can't help but dwell on the Mammoth IPA's and Pizza in Curry. I race to finish so I can imbibe. I need to recruit some people to hike the goods up to the top ($$)!

Added: 2009-07-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: cencalclimber on 2009-06-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great route

The first two pitches were easier than expected. I did some friction practice at the Goblet on Glacier Point Apron before heading up...P3 crux was way easier and then had to bail bc of thunderstorms (grrr!). Approach took about 2 hours from Little Yosemite campground.

Added: 2009-06-17

... Read all 111 ascent notes