Routes : North America : United States : California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress : Manure Pile Buttress : Nutcracker
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Nutcracker - 5.8 popular
Average Rating : 4.47 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (147)
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Description:
5 pitches, crowded due to its overrated reputation; pretty much a chosspile; climb is runout and dangerous. ANOTHER OPINION: Take the left variation start. Nice layback. It is not runout, the crux isn't that hard, you can get pro in by your feet after the crux, and if it is crowded, start early on Sunday morning, and you will score booty from people bailing the night before. It is a fun route and I got to share belays with a really hot chick while my partner had to share belays with her boyfriend. The FINAL opinion: pay attention on the mantle. Some guy who thinks it's "well protected" breaks an ankle here annually. Johnny Woodward's favorite freesolo in the park.
Submitted by: gclimbalot on 2006-01-03
Views: 2328
Route ID: 211
Most Recent Photos (See all 6 photos)
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147 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 147 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
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Onsight ascent by:
Nicest 5.8 Ever!
Especially P1. Perfect and sustained lieback. Perhaps the most beautiful 5.8 I've ever done! Led P1 P2 P4.
Added: 2012-10-23
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
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Added: 2012-08-30
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
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The Promised Land
First climb in Yosemite Valley! It is amazing here! Leading Pitch 1 was awesome doing the layback slightly runout. The holds are slim on the steepest section here and you don’t want to take away a hold with pro. That said I probably could have placed some pro by my feet once I passed it. Pitch 2 was fine but super easy. The climbing gets to be 5-star again right after it though. Pitch 3 was amazing jamming up the crack system. The way we did it, we had a long Pitch 4 to right under the “crux.” Being 5’10” the crux was super easy and seemed like a 5.6 maybe 5.7 move… It would be much harder for a shorter person. Great top-out with an awesome view.
Added: 2012-06-11
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
Finally got to finish this darn thing
With Colin from Scotland! Onsighted p1-2 October 2010 (then stormed off), so I gave those leads to Colin. Then we swapped leads to finish. We had the route to ourselves that morning. Hot and greasy! Mantle move was exciting and scary for me. Due to the length and traversing nature of the crux pitch, I could see it being possible for the second to also sustain an ankle injury if they fell off the crux move (with rope stretch). I kept my second very tight at the start.
Added: 2011-11-06
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Second ascent by:
Fun but too crowded
Overall an excellent climb but it was a clusterf*ck the day we ascended it. Erik led all pitches. Started 5.9 right variation to avoid some of the crowd.
Added: 2011-01-21
