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New Diversions - 5.10a

Average Rating = 4.29/5 Average Rating : 4.29 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 20
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
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Rock (Trad)
G
2
Standard rack with a long runner to sling a big knob, 4" piece to back up the rappel anchor for your partner
150
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 2.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

Left slanting offwidth to start, then just above a bolt, make the scary traverse out right to the arete past some huge knobs. Extra wild if manteling huge knobs is not your thing. Then steep climbing up a thin crack until the anchor at a slung block, before that same crack widens to the top. Very unique and varied climb. Although not runout, you need to have nerve to lead this comfortably.

Descent Options:

Two ropes to get to the ground from the slung block rappel anchor. Also possible to rap from there to ground with one 70 m rope. Also possible to rap with one 60 or 50 m rope to the rap anchor atop Burst of Brilliance first, then another rap to the gro

Submitted by: jonathanjcooke on 2007-03-31
Views: 460
Route ID: 83203

7 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 7 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Flash Flash ascent by: lsandvos on 2013-11-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Wow!

Long single pitch, well worth it. The crack to face transition puts your mind in an interesting place.

Added: 2013-01-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jpjpjp on 2012-06-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Knobs

The enormous knobs are awesome for problem solving! I got pretty pumped on this route due to me taking a while to figure out how to get past the crux. Great route altogether though and pretty perfect for the grade!

Added: 2012-06-14

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sf on 2011-05-22 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars lots of fun

varied route

Added: 2011-06-08

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sanarteaga on 2010-05-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars new bolts!

as may 2010 there are bolts to rap instead of the block... great route

Added: 2010-05-17

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: buju on 2008-06-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars rainy day acent

fun

Added: 2008-06-07

... Read all 7 ascent notes