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Rocket Man - 5.11d

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
Chris Cantwell (1981) F.F.A. Paul Crawford, Jay Smith (Sept 1981)
Rock (Trad)
G
1
Cams, .3" - 1.5" Nuts, 1 set, micro offsets useful.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Step up on some nubs to a bolt then make a big move to a jug (crux) which leads to the obvious thin crack. Thin moves in a splitter crack lead to a off fingers crack in a groove. After some groveling you make it to some jugs and the anchor.

Descent Options:

Rappel the route with a 60m rope.

Submitted by: salamanizer on 2009-11-08
Views: 409
Route ID: 102390

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: salamanizer on 2009-11-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Big Moves

The crux down low above the bolt is a big move which is probably height dependent. After pulling the crux you clip a pin which came out in my hands. I pushed it back in and committed to the move. The rest of the route is locker to thin fingers with a few small rests. Bring thin pro, both nuts and cams which will make things much easier. Just when you think it's over you enter a groveling flare with a splitter crack in the back which takes away any reserves you have left.

The anchor is two old 1/4 in bolts linked with old webbing. There is a big knob which has slings on it to back up the anchor but you might want to bring your own webbing to refresh the old tat. Better yet, bring a tuning fork and a bolt kit.

Added: 2009-11-08