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East Quarter, regular - 5.10a A2

Average Rating = 2.00/5 Average Rating : 2.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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1962, Chouinard et al.
Rock (Trad) Aid
Standard free rack, plus double nuts and a few pins and heads for the dogleg crack. (Arrows and small angles)
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a A2
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 2.00/5
  Rock Quality 2.00/5
  Scenery 1.00/5
  Fun Factor 1.00/5


about 7 pitches of freeclimbing (5.10 and a little A1) lead to a large ledge shooting left. Bivy here or on the cramped chockstone bivy atop the nxt pitch. Mixed pitches, including the A2 dogleg pitch and classic, exposed all time nailup pitch, take you about 5 more pitches (careful of the funky unprotected 10c if you choose the free variation, a guy died there in about 1980) to lower angle, slabby mixed stuff that trends up and right underclinging and/or stepping over various arches. The old Max and Mark Variation allegedly goes Free @ 12c, but it's filthy filthy, filthy.

Descent Options:

Walk out via little Yosemite valley

Submitted by: graniteboy on 2009-03-09
Views: 422
Route ID: 97771

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.10a A2
  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: graniteboy on 1980-07-20 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Back When

Way back then, the Valley was mostly glaciated still, so we had to climb what we could get to. Got in a fight with a wooly mammoth on the way out. Rats present in the cramped chimney Bivy. Sleep on the ledge below, probably better.

Added: 2009-02-11