about 7 pitches of freeclimbing (5.10 and a little A1) lead to a large ledge shooting left. Bivy here or on the cramped chockstone bivy atop the nxt pitch. Mixed pitches, including the A2 dogleg pitch and classic, exposed all time nailup pitch, take you about 5 more pitches (careful of the funky unprotected 10c if you choose the free variation, a guy died there in about 1980) to lower angle, slabby mixed stuff that trends up and right underclinging and/or stepping over various arches. The old Max and Mark Variation allegedly goes Free @ 12c, but it's filthy filthy, filthy.
Walk out via little Yosemite valley
Submitted by: graniteboy on 2009-03-09
Route ID: 97771
Way back then, the Valley was mostly glaciated still, so we had to climb what we could get to. Got in a fight with a wooly mammoth on the way out. Rats present in the cramped chimney Bivy. Sleep on the ledge below, probably better.