This is the route to the left of the 2nd Hwy 120 tunnel that winks at every climber heading out of the park. Every climber that has driven out of Yosemite has seen this splitter crack and wanted to climb it until they found out it was an .11b offwidth.
Burley offwidth moves that are too big for fists yet too small for a knee on an overhanging roof are what this route starts out on. A despirate rest is reached where the crack narrows and turns into a fist crack and eventually a flareing deep hand crack to a bulging physical top out.
Walk off... or crawl.
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2009-04-19
Route ID: 99022
I was able to get fists most of the way. You have to go deep to find them. I also found that keeping the left hand with the palm facing you seemed to help alot. There's a cool knob out right half way up that helps greatly. The topout was a bit grainy & flared. I rarely ever tape up but I did for this & was glad I did.
This route is every bit of .11b offwidth. There is absolutely no way I was going to be able to climb the start in a traditional offwidth manner. I had to lieback the first 20ft placing blind #4's with sketchy feet. Totally despirate. You reach some thank god holds that are good but not great. The crack turns into a physical rattley fist crack to another stance where it turns into a good hand crack way in the back of a flareing chimney. The top out is a total despirate fingerlock nightmare around a bulge. The rock is a bit grainy in spots and course as all hell.