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Magical Mystery Tour - 5.10a

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
Charlie Porter, Dave Altman (1975)
Rock (Trad)
Few cams to 3" Nuts, 1 set.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5


Begin by climbing to the big ledge of Reeds Pinnacle via Reeds left, Direct, or the regular route. From there climb one of the bongs away routes to the top of that formation. From the top, make an easy traverse about 50ft right to the top of a large detached flake seperated about 3ft from the wall. The next pitch climbs a flairing seam to a fixed pin. Make a traverse right across the face where you can. Most partys downclimb a ways and make the traverse from there. The next pitch climbs a splitter flake into a tight squeeze then out a nice fist crack and up easier terrain until the crack system runs out. From the end of the crack system, traverse right and up (5.6R) toward belay anchors which are hard to spot. They are located where the headwall above forms a downward point as shown in the Falcon Guide.

Descent Options:

Rappel from the anchors. The anchors you will be at are shared with a route called Beyond Lunacy. You can rappel that route with two 60m ropes. The first rappel anchors are down and slightly right. The second set of anchors are down and further right arou

Submitted by: salamanizer on 2010-01-17
Views: 952
Route ID: 103274

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2010-01-03 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars A fun tour of the wall

The chimney pitch is a classic Yosemite 5.10 splitter. The whole route feels quite adventurous and fun. Be mindful of your second when leading the traverse into the chimney pitch. There is no pro for the traverse but with some thought you can make it safer for the second. Really worth doing.

Added: 2010-01-17