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Reed's Direct - 5.10a popular

Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (57)
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Rock
3
to 3" Even if you do the chimney you won't need anything wider.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.17/5
  Rock Quality 4.83/5
  Scenery 4.58/5
  Fun Factor 4.75/5

Description:

Hand/Fist crack, staight up for the first two pitches. Most people stop here, 5.9 to this point. There are three variations for the first pitch.There is a third pitch that starts as a wide chimney, narrowing to 5.10a OW at the top. If you don't do the third pitch, you're a poser and haven't climbed Reeds Direct. The OW section isn't hard, reach way back in there and grab the chockstone, good feet and pro on the right. The chimney is freaky though!

Submitted by: rcwallrat on 2005-09-24
Views: 1797
Route ID: 4402

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57 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jpjpjp on 2012-06-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Win

Great climb and super sustained! Eleven days going hard in Yose before this one and it was a killer to pull the OS! Got up it and was super stoked on my last day here. I gotta get back and do the squeeze over to regular route as the finish.

Added: 2012-06-16

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: JakeMiller on 2010-03-28 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Birthday ascent

Felt hard early on, but I pushed through. Endurance is the name of the game. At the top of pitch 2 (the ledge), we ended up finishing our day helping pull out a buddy who was stuck in the squeeze chimney behind Reeds pinnacle itself. We pulled him out with an improvised pulley system and were down before dark. Yikes!

Added: 2010-11-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ashlandoutdoorstore on 2010-06-13 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Reed's Direct

Awesome route. Beautiful views and superb rock. Gets even more fun as you reach the 'third pitch' OW. Save your #4!

Added: 2010-07-07

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: sanarteaga on 2010-06-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars great!

awesome climb... bring a number 4 camalot for the ow up high... also link p 1 and p2 with 60mt

Added: 2010-06-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: thecornyman on 2010-05-21 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars very phisical climb

I tried to lead the first pitch and backed off to follow as I'm a new crack climber. Both the first and second pitch are sustained and take fist and hand jams better than any route I've ever been on. For the third we did the squeeze/chimney and after sh1ting my pants we went up the 5.9 hand crack on the left side to the top. Do the chimney/squeeze, it was crazy and I'll never forget it.

Added: 2010-05-24

... Read all 57 ascent notes