We climbed the regular rostrum, a cool Bombay chimney, perfect hands 10b crack, followed by a triangle belay stance in space, where my new summit shoes felt like they were milking blood out of my feet. Then to a large ledge where most parties exit the climb, but for those who continue is the 11c thin crack pitch. Bill led this pitch then we were under the mushroom like roof looking at the final pitch to summit. Bill planed on climbing out the 10a off with but backed down several times because of poor pro. He resorted to aid the Alien 12b roof instead. Once past the roof bill yelled, “Okay I’m going to stop aiding and climb the head wall clean.” He threw in a 2-˝-inch friend and climbed past it only to hang on all the rest of the gear he placed. So my saying is that Bill led the Alien and did not hang on a piece of gear. Yea the only piece he did not hang on was the 1-˝ inch friend. When I hit the head wall I wanted to hang on the rope but when I did I started to be lowered into space off the lip of the roof. Bill yelled, “ I can’t hold you” so I hook onto a piece of pro. When I reached the top Bill was sitting on the edge of the climb where I had drug him because he was not hooked on to a belay? He said, “ He could not make the manzaneda tree because of all the rope we used for the belay.” This was a very demanding climb, I have only repeated this climb once after in my life.
Witnessed by: Bill Boyle