Skip to Content

Regular North Face route - 5.11c

Average Rating = 4.88/5 Average Rating : 4.88 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (24)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock
small to med. wires plus double set up to #4 friend plus 1 ea. 4 and 5 camalot
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.88/5
  Scenery 4.88/5
  Fun Factor 4.88/5

Description:

pitch 1: varied laybacking in a shallow corner goes into a sweet chimney with a perfect #2 camalot crack in the back. Pitch 2: wide layback with xcellent rock. (.10a) an .11a variation starts low and left. fingers quickley widens to perfect hands. pitch 3: varied hands in a long Indian Creek type corner. xcellent rock. (.10b). pitch 4: thin move past bolt onto huge ledge for bolted belay. (.10a). pitch 5: 1st and 2nd digit fingers goes to a nice right facing corner, passing 2 belay stations. (.11c). pitch 6: physical hands/tight hands in a corner. bonus traverse crux(.10d) pitch 7: physical O.W. with slippery exit moves. pitch 8: either side of down facing flake (.11b tight hands on the left or .10d physical, flared hands/fist on the right) personally i'll take the tight hands !! pitch 9: .10a O.W. layback. whew !!

Submitted by: crackwhore on 2002-05-10
Views: 1530
Route ID: 17040

Most Recent Photos (See all 6 photos)

24 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 24 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 1999-06-13 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars My favorite crack route.

I've done this many times over the years. Once we started at 10 am, and my partner was married at 1600. On my first ascent, I learned, long afterward, I was off belay while my Spanish partner shat. I remember woobling a bit up high, then pulling through. Feels it bit soft for the grade.

Added: 2009-10-13

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: krich58 on 2007-09-22 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Go for it!

One of the best in the Valley

Added: 2008-09-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mikecane303 on 2007-11-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Fun climbing, easy approach.

Varied and sustained (Especially near the top). Great route. Did 11a 2nd pitch var. Linked 3/4 with 60m rope. Finished with 11b hands before the exit pitch.

Added: 2007-11-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: salamanizer on 2007-11-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Bring a #5 or at least a #4

Sustained little route. Lots of fun pitches with only a few shity ones (literally). Kinda lost interest and motivation toward the top. The whole route has a dark, dirty and dreary feel to it. Didn't live up to the hype IMO. Much harder than Positive Vibrations contrary to what the Supertopo would tell ya. It is still a really good route though. Just not the best Yosemite has to offer.

Added: 2007-11-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: jreyher on 2003-05-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Maybe the best free route in the valley

Long hard day

Added: 2007-11-16

... Read all 24 ascent notes