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Mid-Life Crisis - 5.10c

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
Bruce Morris, Dave Yerian (late 80's)
Rock (Trad)
R
4
Quick Draws, plus a piece to protect flake before first bolt.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Four pitches of bleached white sticky high friction granite just to the right of Hershey Highway. Begin by climbing up to a short flake and traversing up and right to the first bolt. There are some 15ft to 30ft run outs along the way but the difficulty is never harder than 5.8 while the cruxes are all well protected. Mostly 5.8/9 friction but each pitch has it's own crux (.10b, .10a, .10a, .10+) which are well protected. Pitch 1 starts by climbing to a short protectable flake and traversing out right to the first bolt. A short crux leads to good edges and a short 5.7 run out with invisible holds to the anchors. Pitch 2 starts takes a short jog to the left then continues up better friction edging with another tame moderate run out to the anchors. Pitch 3 traverses left and climbs a suttle dike with great edges to a short awkward corner. Step right around the corner onto the face to a bolt where more tightly spaced bolts bring you to the anchor. This is the most well protected pitch. Pitch 4 climbs up a short ladder of big edges past a bolt and the crux of the route. One short well protected move and its easy climbing to the next bolt. From here you run it out a good 40/50ft to the anchors on low angle easy high friction granite.

Descent Options:

Rappel the route with two 60m

Submitted by: morcomm on 2005-03-31
Last Modified: 2010-03-23
Views: 645
Route ID: 65216

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2010-03-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Bitchen

Lead all pitches. Perfect granite, high friction and over all great climbing. This is a Yosemite classic for sure. Great route for someone wanting to train for harder more run out Apron/slab routes. This would be a great introduction for the 5.10 leader to Yosemite slabs. Thinking about stepping it up a notch, jump on this route first. Absolutely classic.

Added: 2010-03-21