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Rum Sodomy in the Lash - 5.10d

Average Rating = 2.00/5 Average Rating : 2.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Norman Boles (9/1989)
Rock (Trad)
R
1
Cams, few thin... really thin. Bolts/draws.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 3.50/5
  Rock Quality 2.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 2.50/5

Description:

Start by climbing a difficult rotten seam on kitty litter granite. Make a run out move over shit pro to a small shelf where you get your first bolt. Thin fragile flakes and friction are what keep you on the wall between increasingly spaced bolts. About a 15ft run out brings you to the last bolt which is a rusted, threaded nut 1/4 incher. A 20ft run out brings you to the top anchors from there. The bolt needs replaced so don't fall at the end. The anchors on top are probably good but less than fantastic.

Descent Options:

Rap something else.

Submitted by: salamanizer on 2010-05-02
Views: 863
Route ID: 104671

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: retro67 on 2010-04-24 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Arrgh!

Bold ass lead by Chad. Loose, runout and dicey.

Added: 2010-05-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2010-04-24 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Crispy

This was an exceptionally crispy and flakey route. Belayer needs to look at his feet and wear a helmet. All the bolts look good accept for the last one. I'm supprised that one holds it's own weight. I was way too scared to fall and probably should have bailed at the first bolt. Total Mutt route.

Oh, and the estimates for the run outs on the last bolt are probably very conservative.

Added: 2010-05-02