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Surplus Cheaper Hands - 5.10b

Average Rating = 2.00/5 Average Rating : 2.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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John Tuttle, Norman Boles and George Watson
Rock (Trad) (Sport)
1 1/2 inch to 1/2 inch cams for the crack, quick draws for bolts.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.00/5
  Rock Quality 2.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 2.00/5


One good 3/8 bolt protects the first moves once the crack ends, the next three are old quarter inchers that should hold body weight. :) Sling the tree above or use the three bolt anchor of Age of Industry Crux is the face friction climbing between old quarter inch bolts. The climb starts out on a nice hands to fingers crack before petering out onto face climbing. The first bolt you come across (just slightly to the left and 8 Ft above were the crack peters out) is a nice modern 3/8 bolt. After that, up and left some more on thin friction climbing, the bolts are all old scary 1/4 inch bolts that can probably hold body weight. After the last quarter inch, you can slip in a 3/4 inch cam in a small crack and make your way to the tree for belay, or traverse over to the Age of Industry anchor just right of the climb Location: Climb the first crack left of the 5.6 chimney start of Royal Arches route. (Just left of Age of Industry)

Descent Options:

Rap off anchor (may need to leave a sling) or climb over to Royal Arches.

Submitted by: needlzdos on 2007-07-26
Views: 1187
Route ID: 87261

1 Ascent Recorded

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  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: needlzdos on 2007-05-11 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Hangdog

Fell after 2nd bolt and generally climbed like crap for the rest of it.

Added: 2007-07-26