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Texas Chain Saw Massacre - 5.11a

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
Chris Cantwell, Augie Klein (1980)
Rock (Trad)
G
2
Cams .3"- 2" Nuts, offsets usefull.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

First pitch climbs a crusty decomposed chimney with a splitter hand crack that runs behind you nearly the length of the route offering excelent pro. A crumbly .10+ traverse across the face leads to a long reach into a crack that forms the second pitch. The second pitch is a splitter finger crack that starts impossibly small and widens to locker finger size. The crux is right off the anchors reaching for good (wider) locks. Some run off early in the season does run down the face and into part of the crack but usually doesn't affect the climbing.

Descent Options:

Rap the route. Can rap with a 60m rope. Anchors need replaceing, you may need to bring slings and a biner to back up the tat that is the current anchor.

Submitted by: salamanizer on 2008-04-13
Views: 937
Route ID: 93053

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2008-04-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Stiff

Downright shitty first pitch with a wild traverse to get into the crack. Like climbing on clumpy kitty litter. Second pitch is a perfect splitter finger crack. The start moves felt harder than .11a as the crack was almost too small for a black alien. It quickly widens to an excellent finger crack with tight to locker fingers the whole way.
Both anchors are old 1/4 in Leepers. One has rings the other has lichen covered webbing. Bomber. Crux move felt more like .12a, but only one long move.

Added: 2008-04-13