Double set of cams to 3", a 4", and 4 total .75". quickdraws
This route breaks off right from the pendulum on Royal Arches and takes a few pitches of slab over to the beautiful cobra shaped corner that exits the upper most arch. The slab part is badly runout over old rusty bolts and mediocre gear behind shady flakes. Sounds worse than it is because the runout parts are only 5.9ish. After the slabs come a nice 10.b pitch to 5.7 then some 5.9 wide stuff up to the crux. The crux is 11a sustained undercling that isn't that hard but the pump will bite you. Nice finish from this at the top of the Arch.
North dome Gully... do not try to rap this and bailing would require some reversed traversing.
Submitted by: A-Bowl on 2009-05-24
Route ID: 99632
Saw this up there next to royal arches and was inspired. Big golden corner and the most amazing exit from the arches. Found it in the old Don Reid and Gave it a shot. Soloed up to the pendulum on Royal arches with a rope and a single rack. 1st two pitches linked up nice bolts and small runouts straight up from the top of the pendulum spot. 3rd pitch was less obvious traversing right taking a rusty bolt set far right. this pitch had only 3 rusty bolts for pro and crossed a light stream of water that required getting a couple points of contact wet. After this linked possibly three pitches with a stretch and some simuling along the base of the arch where it meets the slabs. This is where we made a mistake. missed the actual 10b pitch that heads up to the money and ended up in the cobra corner which was choked with grass. Thought maybe just a little overgrown so had a crazy grass pulling adventure for a pitch and a half before i started aiding a side crack and eventually pendulumed over left to the actual route. Thank god (we did a 5.11 grass clump dyno with no pro over the belayer... not cool). Heres where it started getting fun and normal. The crux pitch needs some cleaning before it will be sent and some new bolts at the top. If you do this bring a brush and a bolt kit. This could be another classic if it was brough up to date....