Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
Yvon Chouinard, Herbert
SR including many runners. 4" piece useful for pitch 11 but not mandatory if you're comfortable with 5.8 fists/OW.
To approach you need to ascend the same ramp as for Steck-Salathe'....but just before you go around the flying Butt. you go back left on an obvious system of ramps...path of least resistance- this section of the approach is NOT trivial, be ready.
Start up on the right side of the chessman pinnacle (the smaller pinnacle just to the left of the flying butt)...the first 3 pitch's go no harder than 5.8-. they can be done in 2- 70M pitch's or simul climbed. The third pitch exit's the, side of the pinnacle and climbs 5.8 on the front of it. From the top of the chessman climb up and right on a ramp to the obvious thin corner climb this at 5.11c or C1. Pitch6 climbs out left along an angling crack with numerous pins fixed(5.10a).
Pitch 7 climbs straight up at 5.10a, exit crack what appears to be alittle early to the right at a couple of bolts- do not belay here, instead continue up a right a short distance to the obvious belay. pitch 8- Link the next 2 pitch's by climbing up and right then traversing back left aiming for the small pinnacle at the base od the dihedral(5.9). pitch 9- climb the obvious wide crack above(there is small gear to be had) at 5.8, it becomes thinner and 5.11a over the first roof, continue at 5.10d over the next roof and belay at the 2 bolt hanging belay. The next pitch is the Afro-cuban flakes. This is a wild pitch that doesn't see alot of free ascent's. Traverse out right by under clinging the flakes, there are numerous fixed pins....at the "end" of the flakes climb up a thin crack at 5.11c, then 5.10a. The next pitch climbs 5.8 to the obvious ledge system that allows a fairly easy escape up and left. Use the standard descent for sentinel. All belay have been rebolted as of sept 2005. Bring a single set of gear from nuts to a #3 camalot...maybe some extra draws as there are alot of fixed pins.
Submitted by: flamer on 2008-06-05
Route ID: 70129
We had trouble finding the start, and wasted an hour wandering around the base. For those who wonder, the Chessman Pinnacle is the short one just to the left of the flying buttress. Look for the small tree 3/4 to the top and the manicured bivy spot below. Almost did it with no falls, but was just too wasted by the Afro-Cuban flakes and took one hang/fall (my usual problem of not willing to go for it above good gear).