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Moratorium - 5.11b

Average Rating = 4.83/5 Average Rating : 4.83 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (13)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.20/5
  Rock Quality 4.60/5
  Scenery 4.40/5
  Fun Factor 4.80/5

Description:

(5.11b / 380ft / 4 pitches) Climb the large corner system that rises below the East Buttress of El Cap. P1 (5.10d / 150ft / gear .5in to 3in / fixed belay) Climb the “Enduro Corner” wannabe. Long and fairly sustained pitch, with variety LB, fingers, hands & good stuff! P2 (5.10d / 90ft / gear .4in to 3in / fixed belay) Continue up the corner. Not as aesthetic as the first pitch, but good none the less. Crux stems near the top of the pitch. P3 (5.11b / 100ft / gear .4in to 2in / fixed piton belay) Climb fingers to a distinct stance with a thin corner looming above, and prepare for the creative finesse stuff to come. Work through a strange wedge-like crux, puzzling out which way to face, and work up to a large sloping ledge. P4 (5.9 / 40ft / gear .5in to 2.5in / natural belay) Continue, past 5.9 hands, and some broken terrain. Tackle some face (5.9) before the difficulties ease up gaining the shoulder fronting the eastern ramparts of El Cap. The Moratorium – East Buttress (13 pitches) combination provides even greater length, but the harder stuff is behind you. While the Moratorium stands on its own merits, it’s also a good training vehicle for the Rostrum and Astroman.

Submitted by: jimmyray on 2006-08-16
Views: 1048
Route ID: 79001

13 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 13 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: A-Bowl on 2009-05-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Another love affair with a crack in a rock!

Yeah... this thing is awesome. Lead every pitch and really amazed I didn't fall in the top two cruxes. Just believe!

Added: 2009-05-10

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: paddyrock on 2008-10-21 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars amazing

really fun climb
buddy left a lot of blood on the crux.. hard part was trying to avoid it all...

Added: 2008-10-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: tradclimber14 on 2008-09-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Splitter!

This line is sick! With the long, sustained first pitch, the two thin cruxes on the next two pitches, and the fact that your on the Moratorium!!! All is good except I think the 2nd pitch should be 11a.

Added: 2008-10-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: superbum on 2008-05-31 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars sweet

Great route...every pitch was supurb...lead every pitch...got a giant boner.

Added: 2008-05-31

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: rat-baby on 2008-05-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars killer

.

Added: 2008-05-05

... Read all 13 ascent notes