Routes : North America : United States : California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Shultz's Ridge : Schultz's Ridge (East Side) : Moratorium
Moratorium - 5.11b
Average Rating : 4.83 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (13)
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Description:
(5.11b / 380ft / 4 pitches) Climb the large corner system that rises below the East Buttress of El Cap. P1 (5.10d / 150ft / gear .5in to 3in / fixed belay) Climb the “Enduro Corner” wannabe. Long and fairly sustained pitch, with variety LB, fingers, hands & good stuff! P2 (5.10d / 90ft / gear .4in to 3in / fixed belay) Continue up the corner. Not as aesthetic as the first pitch, but good none the less. Crux stems near the top of the pitch. P3 (5.11b / 100ft / gear .4in to 2in / fixed piton belay) Climb fingers to a distinct stance with a thin corner looming above, and prepare for the creative finesse stuff to come. Work through a strange wedge-like crux, puzzling out which way to face, and work up to a large sloping ledge. P4 (5.9 / 40ft / gear .5in to 2.5in / natural belay) Continue, past 5.9 hands, and some broken terrain. Tackle some face (5.9) before the difficulties ease up gaining the shoulder fronting the eastern ramparts of El Cap. The Moratorium – East Buttress (13 pitches) combination provides even greater length, but the harder stuff is behind you. While the Moratorium stands on its own merits, it’s also a good training vehicle for the Rostrum and Astroman.
Submitted by: jimmyray on 2006-08-16
Views: 790
Route ID: 79001
13 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 13 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
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Onsight ascent by:
Another love affair with a crack in a rock!
Yeah... this thing is awesome. Lead every pitch and really amazed I didn't fall in the top two cruxes. Just believe!
Added: 2009-05-10
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
amazing
really fun climb
buddy left a lot of blood on the crux.. hard part was trying to avoid it all...
buddy left a lot of blood on the crux.. hard part was trying to avoid it all...
Added: 2008-10-21
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11b |
| Safety Rating | G |
Red Point ascent by:
Splitter!
This line is sick! With the long, sustained first pitch, the two thin cruxes on the next two pitches, and the fact that your on the Moratorium!!! All is good except I think the 2nd pitch should be 11a.
Added: 2008-10-15
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11b |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
sweet
Great route...every pitch was supurb...lead every pitch...got a giant boner.
Added: 2008-05-31
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
killer
.
Added: 2008-05-05
