A good description of route and approach is in the 1998 edition of the Don Reid Falcon guide. The following information is related to that guide book: I would describe this as a bold old school route, If you do the "Dihardral" route start you start where you see the 2 pins and you can place proabove to marginally protect the "Blind reach". The 10c move at the top of the pillar (at the end of "Dihardral" route and beginning of "Never Say Dog" route it is scary to get to the bolt. the pitch noted as "Amazing Orange face" is exactly that but expect long runouts (30 feet or so) but bolts do a fair job of protecting difficult sections altho there still are hard moves 8' or so above the bolts in a couple places. Near the top where guide indicates "pro for leader" it is possible for second to lower out. Near the top of the climb where the guide says "pro for follower" there is scary loose rock.
Submitted by: johnr9q on 2006-06-09
Route ID: 77304
A few notes. The moves at the start of the first pitch are not bold or difficult compared to later pitches. After the bolt on the first pitch there is some harder bolder climbing. the rest of the first pitch is tamer. The second pitch has 6 bolts over about 45 meters. There is a 40+ ft run out second to third bolt over easier terrain. The next dihedral pitch has hard climbing at the end, with very small pro under the roof. Grey c-3 and master cam are essential. Save a green alien or blue totem for after the roof. The last hard pitch has a bold hard balance move above gear. Your partner needs to move out of the fall zone. The fixed gear to protect the leader is marginal. Decent gear can be had to protect the follower. There is startlingly loose flakes on this pitch and the last easy pitch. Get a picture of the one on the last pitch. Last pitch--traverse right about 200 ft. to trees. This route needs a few bolts