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The Good Book (aka right side of the Folly) - 5.10d

Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
Premier Sponsor:
F.A. Warren Harding, Tom Fender (1965) F.F.A Jim Bridwell, Dale Bard, Kevin Worrall, Ron Kauk (1973)
Rock (Trad)
G
6
Cams .4"-5" Nuts 1 set
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d A0
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.67/5
  Rock Quality 4.33/5
  Scenery 4.33/5
  Fun Factor 4.67/5

Description:

The obvious right facing dihedral directly under a white rockfall scar. Pitch 1 climbs some loose/suspect rock in an obvious corner. A little greasy down low. (5.9) Pitch 2 climbs a hand/lieback corner to a good ledge. Belay at the higher anchors directly under the obvious 3rd pitch. You can link pitches 1&2 with a 60m rope. (5.9) Pitch 3 climbs a beautiful lieback finger crack in a corner. Sustained ringlocks, fingerlocks, lieback moves with a few foot features for a quick rest. Belay at an obvious small ledge/stance at 2 bolt anchor. (5.10d) Pitch 4 climbs a hands corner, then cuts out right and pulls over a wild roof to a two bolt anchor. The left variation over the roof is 5.11b and the right crack variation (reccomended) climbs an arching undercling with a few good hands, a thank god jug and is 5.10b/c ish. Two bolt anchor. (5.9) Pitch 5 is a short overhanging strait in hand/fist crack to a good ledge. Two bolt anchor. Can link Pithces 4&5 or 5&6. (5.10c) Pitch 6 is an offwidth crack in a corner. 4" and 5" pro usefull, a few small pieces for up high. (5.9)

Descent Options:

Rap the route at any time. Two ropes are needed to rap from the top of pitch two.

Submitted by: salamanizer on 2008-06-08
Views: 1136
Route ID: 94167

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 1996-07-07 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars great route

I did this in about 1996. Went up to do it 4 April 2012 but it was flowing water at the base, and the corner was wet as well for at least 50 ft. Not a good early season route. The first section is a bit chossy

Added: 2012-04-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d A0
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: retro67 on 2010-04-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Sweet

Thanks Chad for urging me to get my butt up on this one. Had to use some direct aid to get past some wet spots low. The rest of the first pitch was a litlle uncomfortable on lead. But if that was the price of admission to the upper pitches it was more than worth it.

Added: 2010-04-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2008-06-07 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Bring a #4 and/or #5

The first two pitches are crap. The rest of the route is top notch, 5 star badass Yosemite climbing.
Brought two #3 C4's, wish we'd brought something bigger for the last pitch. Pretty run out if ya aint got the big stuff.

Added: 2008-06-08